1955 S1 rebuild

Hi Shamirj,

Awnser for 1st Question:

nothing on the engine side, thats correct! there is the only one cover plate on the inside of the bulkhead! those 6 holes is normal you only need the 2 centre holes each side for the steering column cover plate. also remember to put a piece of rubber or neoprene (wetsuit material) to close off the gap around the column. the other 4 holes 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom are for the cover plate, as the bulkheads were built for left and right hand drive Landys. look at the pics below.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1310.jpg
cover plate for left side on top right hand corner of picture.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1311.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1312.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1313.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1314.jpg

Awnser for 2nd Question:

im not sure what part of the accelerator rod u talking about. are you talking about that shaft that has ball joint connectors each end, or the shaft that runs horizontal through the bulk head to the foot pedal?
pics attached below hope something there makes sense. also just to note my accelerator may be different as its modified for the holden motor. my carby is on the passenger side, what side is it origionally on a 2litre motor?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1315.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1316.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1317.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/10/1318.jpg

hope this is helpful, cheers Chris;)

thanks a lot for the pics. cant recall which side the carby is on as the engine is apart for now.

i had the accelerator before the L shape bracket hence would slide, in yours its after the bracket which stops it sliding out. the horizontal bar that is. will fix that no probs.

the steering now makes sense will fix that as well. just thought there may have been something else engine side.

windscreen went on yesterday. painted more bits and pieces. oil filter got painted. thats it for now. thx again for the pics.:)

hi All,

I have removed and painted the three steering rods and cant remember which length goes where, they measure 58cm (23inch) shortest, middle length 69cm (27inch) and longest length 107cm (42inch). I'm guessing the longer one is the track rod. really want to connect the arm from steering wheel to relay box in front of chassis but not sure of length.

LR book states all 3 arms have opposing tie rod ends on them meaning left hand thread one end the opposite is right hand thread. 6 total tie rod ends. yes:)

piston in engine still stuck - unable to budge it. used different oils no use. even brake oil two weeks no good. dont want to break the piston to remove any other suggestions. someone suggested heating not sure...:angrylock:

G'day All, The closest item I have found to match the texture etc of the gasket behind/around the steering column, where it goes through the b/head, is a used 'Mouse pad' you know the thicker ones, it's easy to cut etc and cheap as, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:

Diesel in the bore is what i have seen done.

From the staitionary engine blokes that often have to free long rusted pieces, I have heard of milk, diluted molasses in water and finally electrolysis.

I have used electrolysis and am happy to say that it works cleaning up steel, no dangerous chemicals just need to make sure that you don't set the hydrogen on fire as it will explode. I did my work outside so it did not have an opportunity to build up.

patience

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dinty

G'day All, The closest item I have found to match the texture etc of the gasket behind/around the steering column, where it goes through the b/head, is a used 'Mouse pad' you know the thicker ones, it's easy to cut etc and cheap as, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:

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Thats clever Dennis, better than goin to clark rubber for the same sort of material (Neoprene). a good way to recycle.:clap2:

cheers,

Chris

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chris1983rangie

Thats clever Dennis, better than goin to clark rubber for the same sort of material (Neoprene). a good way to recycle.:clap2:

cheers,

Chris

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Alternatively, if you have one of those old K-Mart 'bed rolls' made from 12mm rubber/foam (the type you send your kids off to Cub Scouts with) you can use that. I did. ;)

another clever one...........! thanks, Chris;)

completed almost the rear tray. painted black underneath and green on top. galvanised bits cleaned up with wire brush. rear panel cut out another aluminium panel and rivetted on then painted. very happy with outcome looks like new. want that aged look but not completely new. need to drill out holes for the lights.

gearbox cleaned up. cleaned up the front and rear prop & tail shafts not sure if they are any different really and not sure which way they go back on. later on that.

have not touched the engine yet. still piston stuck as before. enjoying the work on the body.

side rails put on. can i purchase the normal engine mounts and use these for the box mounts. two piece gbox mounts are expensive. purchased new grommets for around the brake and clutch floor. steering ok now need to purchase tie rod ends x6. enjoy the pics:)

Good work - I'd love a 1950's wheelbarrow like that! :D