1955 S1 rebuild

thanks for that the wheelbarrow makes it ideal to move around in or out of the sun when painting and drying. worked a treat for painting and getting it off the ground.

next pic is the rear door. found some aluminium and rivetted over the back door which had some damage to it. cut it out and rivetted. i think it looks ok.:) plus did a repair of another smaller piece to centre bottom of tailgate and ready for painting now. tailgate frame all cleaned up with wire brush so its ready to go on as well. just gotta get the damn spray gun all cleaned out to work properly as the last time it splatted out the paint - prob dirty from previous time.:)

need to go to bunnings and get some more nuts and bolts for the tray.:D

Hi All,

Finally removed the jammed piston. Drilled a few holes and hammered it out gently. So glad it came out finally. pic attached looked a bit dry on the sides suspecting the oil pump not working or pumping oil to piston shaft. not sure not a mechanic:D

other 3 removed and in bucket soaking in degreaser for a wash later. now need to purchase a second hand piston from somewhere cheaply:mad: suggestions please where to get a cheap 2nd hand piston:wasntme:

water pump removed as well. :cool:

rear body cappings near complete and drilled a hole for the rear lights. pics later as my pc is very slow in uploading from the camera. enjoy:)

The oil pump pressurises the oil galleries to lubricate the top end, rockers, valve springs, timing chain etc. The pistons are lubricated by the crankshaft picking oil out of the sump and flinging it upwards. So it wouldn't have been the oil pump that caused the seizure. Have a close look at the piston rings and the walls of the cylinder it came out of. If there is any damage you need to consult a specialist engine mechanic. With the low compression these engines can take a bit of abuse but re-assembling an engine needs to be done with great care. Replace your big end and main (if you loosened the crankshaft itself) bearing shells. Check the little ends for any play at all as they have to take higher pressures.

You are welcome to one of my old pistons provided it is the right size. Can you measure up (they usually come in 10 thou oversize increments, standard, +10, +20, +30, +40). Photograph one of the good ones for me?

Good luck with it, Paul

Sorry that is wrong, all lubrication on a S1 engine is from the oil pump, the crank shaft is not in oil.
Oil is fed through the main bearings into the shaft then big ends, sprayed out the holes in the rods in an upwards direction thus oiling the cylinders. If any or these oil ways are blocked, can happen when people use silastic then no oil to the pistons. Your problem was more likely due to over heating thus lots of things need to be looked at.
Dennis

hope to upload some pics of the block - not sure of the engine number but there are two in the pics hope this helps. piston measured but not sure of the exact measurement so see pic for details. rings are pretty grotty and filthy which may explain why oil wasn't lubricating perhaps:cool:

piston 78-79mm is that correct reading, as is bore...:cool:
244291 is this the engine number, then there is 241613... not sure am i looking at the right location...:cool:

my other question is the water pump has a hole below is that normal - it spins freely so think it might be good - not sure what do u think.:o

any idea how much is involved in a piston ring change $ worth:angel:

any help or suggestions much appreciated thanks guys:) would love to see this old girl fired up again but realise this may take some time to achieve, one small step at a time though...:)

might even water blast the engine block now that everything is off it. was going to put the g'box back in but realise should put the engine in first then the box for aligning purposes.

also is it possible to use a series engine mounts round type for the g'box instead of the two piece for the S1. looks like it can be done but not sure and the round type are easier and cheaper to source. cheers

That is not the engine number - it is stamped not cast.

The engine number is in two places. The first is on the front passenger side of the block just in front of the exhaust manifold. The second is at the rear passenger side of the block just behind the exhaust manifold.

Garry

see pic - hope this is the engine number, small numbers and tiny to find:)

cheers for the advice though:D

57111664 - an eight digit number hoping this is the correct number ;)

will a series S2/S2A swb spring set front and rear fit a 1955 86 inch.
the S2/2A is 88 inch wheelbase but not sure if the springs interchange. are they the same or different
cheers:angel:

1. The hole in the water pump is normal; the pump will need a new seal at min. As it looks to be a cast pump it is worth repairing- there have been lots of posts on this on the Trans s1 site but if you need help send me your number and I will give you a call.
2- You can’t determine the bore size like that. look at the top of a good piston and see if there is a number eg 20 or st stamped into the crown this will give you the size. EG: 30 stands for 30th over.
3- the gearbox can go in first, in fact if you have the panels removed it is the easiest way.
4- if the engine has been very hot, clean up the bores and look for crack just below the ext. valve seats.
5- from the pics it looks like someone has replaced the sacrificial anodes with steel plug, this will work but looks bad and can upset exhaust manifold alignment.
6 spring will fit.
The above offer holds for any questions you might have.
Dennis

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shamirj

see pic - hope this is the engine number, small numbers and tiny to find:)

cheers for the advice though:D

57111664 - an eight digit number hoping this is the correct number ;)

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That is it :D

Garry