Thread: 1969 Series IIA Ex Army project

Ok
Thanks very much for your input,
I suspect the 2.25 might need new rings, this is why i thought it may just be simpler (more cost effective) to do a transplant, but your right, the car's not designed for a holden motor. so i think i might cool my heels a little on that one.
A few more questions
If i do need to replace my rings, should i have the head looked at?
because again i'm a student and dont have an awful amount of money, and will this be expensive.
one other thing, with the o/d fitted as it is now, will the 2.25 have enough torque to keep the car going in 5th gear?
and does this change much if the transplant is done?
also, how helpful all in all is overdrive for the 2.25?
Here is some information i have collected,
the red motor is
more economical
more powerful
easier and cheaper to find parts for
will work very well with overdrive
how much truth is there to this?

thanks once again
you folks have been fantastic.
James

G'day Jameshuelin

The only way to check if the vehicle needs rings is to do a compression test, which is easy enough to do, as it may only need valve stem seals, which on start-up will blow blue smoke,and if to does need rings it is a fairly simple job that does not require the removal of the motor just the head and sump,and if done by a competent person is an easy job, or if somebody competent instructs you how to do it.with removal of the pistons it is imperitive that the conrod bearings be kept in sequence/order, or replace with new slippers of the same size.the pistons will be marked on the top with there size so ordering rings would not be a major problem.


cheers

Okay
well thanks very much for the feedback
when i go up this weekend i'll have a further think, once i asses the situation
cheers
James

Hi all
I have been working on the landy today, trying to get it started, turns out the wiring on this car is not too flash, it's not a birds nest, and all the extra wiring put in for the auxillery components was done very well, but i'm afraid the previous owner did not take very good care of the old girl and i'm now left with the task of sorting out the wiring.
anyway, whilst trying to start the car today, my uncle aand i found that the starter motor didnt seem to be getting enough power, and found
a) a poor connection from the power to the actual starter housing, it needs a new insulator for the bolt that runs out of the housing
b)the starter armature will need replacing
so what would the most cost effective solution be to this problem?
does anyone have a spare starter?
cheers
James

G'day Jameshuelin

It probably has a Lucas M418G starter, which the bolt insulation block is a known problem they are available from Kevin Baker (KBClassic spares) he is not on the internet, but you can contact him by phone, he is "The Lucas Man" and has a vast quantity of spares and knowledge(ex Lucas staff), his No is (07)54 944 221 he is at Witta about 10K outside of Maleny, he should be able to supply most parts for your starter a very nice person to deal with as I have known him for 20+ years

you will need to give him the No stamped on the case of the starter,M--- and then a 6? digit No



cheers

Hi Uncleho
thanks very much for the contact, i think we sorted something out, and i think i'll be up in maleny on the weekend to get all the parts i need for the starter, so that's another thing checked off the list.
To everyone, should have some project shots and questions up this evening
cheers
James

Hi all
Have a few interesting points for you all, and also a few troubling questions, from working on the car over the weekend.
-first of all how hard is it to find an ex army dipstick as the rhs dipstick hole has been covered

also is it usual to have a metric dipstick, as the dipstick i do have goes to 45L

Also to do with the fuel tanks, the LHS fuel tank plug is there and fine as shown,

but the RHS fuel tank plug has a smaller thread about 12mm in dia, also the plug is missing so what should i be doing here do you think?

Here are some build codes etc. sydney pressed metal corp. standard warning plate covered in paint.
chassis no. 25327183D
Body no. 19454
Ser. no. 101919454

Here's the Nonclameture (wrong spelling?) plate
Utility 1/4 ton GS
again chassis no. ...
census no. 6028
contract no. c106280
date 10-68

Here's another plate not sure if it's army standard?
it has ,
23 10/68 Sth 11 (the only thing i know it the build date)

and here is simply the info plate

In the next two photos the over drive is shown with a tube coming out of the top and in the next it shows where the tube finishes, joined to the original fuel bowl (replaced with a lucas fuel filter)
*also! how do i go about cleaning that kind of crap off the engine and transmission?!* having difficulty


Here are just the cooling vents on the bonnet, i beleive they are boat cooling vents.


and one final thing
i was wondering what brand these FW hubs were?

Sorry for the bombardment of information
hopefully you all find something interesting in that jumble
cheers
James

James,
An Ex-Army dip stick just went through ebay without any bids. Search for this item number: 300419659118

Also, clean off the crap with heaps of degreaser, let it soak in 24hrs and blast it with a gurnie