Thread: 1969 Series IIA Ex Army project

Hi all
Had a fantastic day yesterday!
i went to buy a new starter armature and brushes form Kevin Baker in Maleny,
took me and my uncle the rest of the morning to rebuild the starter .
whacked it in the car, put in a battery, and Vroom!
very surprisingly on the first start after about 8 seconds of quite decent starting power the engine kicked into life! (Kevin also informed me my starter is a (still a lucas but M3) replacement from a 74 car, not land rover but a more powerful starter ) so anyway, even more surprisingly, i got a full clutch and all gears including overdrive work fantastically! (even brakes too) So i spent about an hour tooling around the countryside, checking the locking hubs, hi lo range 4x4 etc, and all fine.

The next thing on the list, is to first, see whether i need to replace the head gasket as there is air bubbling up into the radiator. so i'll do a compression test, next time, also try and get one of the tools you can stick on the radiator to measure exhaust fumes in the cooling system.

And also, the breather is breathing smoke, not alot, but i MAY (not sure yet) so if the head gasket needs replacing i'll check the rings and bores at the same time.

Another important thing, can the sump be dropped without removing the engine?

Also do 2.25 petrol blocks have a tendency to get elliptical bores? or is it more likely the rings just need replacing?

Anyway, that's it for now
cheers
James
P.S.
How much would i expect to pay for a full ring set for the motor?

Good to hear about your success James!

Try these addresses for parts and prices,

Cheers Charlie

Paddock Spares - Land Rover, Range Rover Parts & Accessories - Discovery, Defender and Freelander
L. R. Series - specialists in land rover, land rover series and range rover - gearbox, axle, transmission parts, spares and major units
Discovery 89-94 - Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
John Craddock Ltd - Specialists in Land Rover Parts and Spares
Land Rover parts - Home
British Four Wheel Drive - Land Rover & Range Rover Parts Specialist :: DISCOVERY SERIES 1
Karcraft Australia
P.A. Blanchard & Co. : Ex Military Landrover Specialists, Trailers, Ex MOD Spares, Surplus Stores & Equipment

Hi mate
Thanks very much for the info!
once i figure out what the engine needs i'll go searching!
so would anyone know what i should be expecting in an old 2.25 petrol?
i.e. heavily worn bores, worn valve guides and seats?
or is it more likely if the engine is blowing smoke it's just rings?
cheers again
James
P.S.
sorry i couldnt get any photos over the weekend, had no camera, luckily not too much has changed appearance wise.

G'day Jameshuelin

That motor fuming from the breather sounds like rings,and the bubbles in the radiator would indicate a head gasket,should show by shorting out individual plug leads,if the motor falters when the lead is shorted that bore is OK, if it doesn't falter as much it is down on compression,the usual culprit is 2 &3 they blow between, if you are removing the head get it checked for warps,and surface skimmed to true it up, also run a straightedge over the block, across and lengthwise,as if a motor has been cooked to just short of seized they will warp the block as well, been there done that the piston size will be marked on the top STD,020,040 rings are still available, mine when I bought it in 86 fumed badly but nothing out the back, pulled the head,and sump,4 pistons 32 pieces of ring and I had driven it home at 80kph running smoothly just fuming a lot.


cheers

Hi UncleHo
so as i most likely will be taking the head off, would it be likely i would also need to get the head re sleeved and seated? (how could i tell) and how bad were your bores when you took the head off, what did you do to them?
thanks once again !
JAmes

G'day Jameshuelin

When I got mine it's speedo read 86,3?? miles, when I took the head off,the bore was oval (it had been flogged by ????? army drivers) the pistons were +020 so I did a total rebuild on it,strip, chemi clean,rebore,pistons & rings,crankshaft grind, new main,new big ends,all new seals, timing chain and gears,head trued up, new valve guides and valves,all new brass welsh plugs,basically I jacked up the engine number and rebuilt everything else,and then at 56,000 miles,it snapped a conrod bolthead off on the way to a friend's funeral so I rebuilt my other spare motor, same thing, it has now done 146,800+ miles and still going well,timing chain is getting a little rattley now though my vehicle has done about 250,000miles now since 7/1992.

When you mention about getting the head re-sleeved I assume that you are talking about the valves and valve guides, the valve guides are replacable they are bronze,and if you are going to do that I would suggest that you get hardened valve seats fitted (for use with unleaded) and get the valves seated in you should also get the head trued (skimmed) to make sure it is totally flat and will seal well against the gasket/block.


cheers

Hi Uncleho
well that's very useful
so i guess i'll get the head off next time, and get it crack tested and faced, and then (as i assume i cannot do hardenet valve seats on my own see if that needs doing.
and then check out the bore for wear do rings etc.
thanks once again for all the help
cheers
James

G'day Jameshuelin

No worries my friend I get all my engine work done by "Auster Engine Centre" at Auster St Caboolture, just up from the transport dept,have been dealing wth them for 15+ years,they used to do our bus diesel motors when the boss had the fleet of school buses.


cheers