Thread: Oiling leafs

G'day Folks

Interesting thread this one, when I rebuilt the springs in my 109 2a GS in 1990 as they were badly rust expanded, I seperated the leaves, one spring pack at a time,I then LIGHTLY cleaned them with a 4"(100mm) angle grinder, and put a small(1/32")chamfer on each leaf end upper face, and a 1/16 radius on the corners,(this helps the springs slide) one of the big aftermarket suspension mobs used to manufacture like this for Japanese 4x4's and called it "Diamond Cut" sold a mutza of them $$$, I then painted them with HOT TAR, (road tar, heat until starting to smoke,use leather welding gloves for safety),and paint it on thinly,when cooled and set (1 day) re-assemble with new centre bolt. Paint can by used instead of Tar.

NOTE:the Right Hand Front Spring will stand up +1 to 2 inches higher when stood on their ends,(upside down) to compensate for the driver and fuel tank,109 only, (I replaced my bushes with standard rubber/steel original types) all leaves were radiused and chamfered and any lips on the underside of the leaves were feathered out,since then my vehicle has done about 260,000miles since 1992,and the bushes are just starting to get sloppy,and a little bit of spring sag, so this time they will have to be reset.

NOTE:early SWB's the rear right spring has the highest camber set(height) On some original springs there will be a part number stamped on the underside of the second leaf at the front end of the spring,left and right No's are different

Hope this is a helpful guide.


cheers

Originally Posted by peterg1001

Well, if anyone is interested in my own sad (ish) story about rear springs, here it is

Sorting out the rear suspension

Peter

Bugger

That was a lot of effort to go to when you could have had the springs reset to a lower camber and called it good.

I am sure the supplier would have some obligations given that they were new parts... Maybe worth contacting small claims?