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Thread: Oiling leafs

  1. #31
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    Those springs don't look too bad. Just clean them up and put them back.. All depends how far you want to go. Stripping them down to clean them. They will be getting past their use by date by now with rust and tiny stress cracks
    and losing some set. Oiling them .I am guilty of doing that only to stop them rusting further. A leaf spring works on friction between the leaves. Rusty springs won't work properly. Greasy or oily springs will cause springs to flex more eg less friction and make them softer. ....

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    wow thanks for that really interesting......

    I would just have to find an old bath tub or something that I can do this in I guess...not sure I'm going to fit me springs in bucket
    Don't know but may be a length of plastic sewage pipe may do it, with a cap on one end.

    You can do one half in a bucket then turn it over for other half.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by groucho View Post
    A leaf spring works on friction between the leaves. Rusty springs won't work properly. Greasy or oily springs will cause springs to flex more eg less friction and make them softer. ....
    Interleaf friction affects damping, but has little or no effect on overall travel IME. Packs with a lot of leaves have a lot of damping (apparently some trucks don't need shock absorbers), which is why you need to upgrade shocks when fitting parabolics or coils. SO greasing your springs will keep them rust free and give you a slightly smoother ride, but that is it.

    On the topic of flex, those 8-leaf springs will flex very little unless heavily loaded. Now is a good time to remove a leaf or two - and maybe to remove the bolts from the two outer clamps to increase down travel.

  4. #34
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    at this moment in time...I'm looking at just getting the car on the road...

    I'm not to worried about springs as long as they work and look ok (tidied up)

    reason being is I would rather spend the time doing some of the other stuff that needs to be assembled and disassembled..

    The way I see it is as long as the springs work and look ok to a blue slip man then I'm happy as springs can come off and be rebuilt or changed at any time they are easy to get to.

    if I remove a leaf or two though wouldn't that effect the amount we can carry?

    I dont car about flex its never going to go offroad only to carry heavy good around and to putt putt round local villages
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    at this moment in time...I'm looking at just getting the car on the road...
    OK - then just brush on some rust converter, wash off, paint, and when you have it all back together flex up the suspension and apply a small amount of grease between the leaves.


    if I remove a leaf or two though wouldn't that effect the amount we can carry?

    I dont car about flex its never going to go offroad only to carry heavy good around and to putt putt round local villages
    Slightly. But with the current springs you can put 750 lb in the back and the suspension will only drop an inch. I have the same springs with 2 leaves removed and reset. I have carries 1.2T a couple of times...

    If load carrying ability is more important than comfort though, then maybe it is best to keep them standard.

  6. #36
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    Thanks for the advice Ben
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  7. #37
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    You could always add that Rolls Royce touch by fitting leather gaiters....
    Welcome to Wefco Gaiters

    Not a great deal of info on the website but basically tailor made leather gaiters that buckle together over the spring.

    I remember on an Austin Somerset I had some years ago that there were zinc sheets between each leaf of the spring pack, these maybe stopped the corrosion and gave something for the leaves to slide on. Over time they did get thinner and extruded out the sides.

    I'd have to agree with the other comments on greasing, may improve ride but attracts dirt unless they are covered after greasing. Years ago my father used a greased hessian tape that was used to protect gas pipes buried underground. The outside soon got covered in dirt and the grease dried out but inside the grease was kept on the spring and dirt free.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  8. #38
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    If anyone is really worried about lubricating leaf springs and wearing them out quicker don't be, because:
    1. Dry springs get grit and dirt in them as well and once it is between the leaves it won't come out easily.
    2. Dry springs rust, which is a nasty abrasive in its own right - the proof is in the wear-steps.
    3. Dry lubricants such as graphite and molybdenum di-sulphide can be used instead of wet ones.
    4. If the springs get really dirty, jack the car up and support it on chassis stands and allow the axle to drop under its own weight so that the leaves separate. Blast them with high-pressure water and re-lubricate.
    5. Even if lubricated springs wear faster than dry ones - and I don't believe they do - it would still be worth doing for the much more comfortable ride!

    Cheers Charlie

  9. #39
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    Well, if anyone is interested in my own sad (ish) story about rear springs, here it is

    Sorting out the rear suspension

    Peter

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterg1001 View Post
    Well, if anyone is interested in my own sad (ish) story about rear springs, here it is

    Sorting out the rear suspension

    Peter
    I dont want to sound like a tool Peter, but why didn't you return the wrong springs and get the correct springs?

    Cheers,

    Adam

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