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Thread: Rusted door top bolts.

  1. #1
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    Rusted door top bolts.

    About the only rust of any note in my '65 s2a in holding
    the door top bolts VERY tight in the doors.
    So the question is what is the best way to get the tops off
    without wrecking them or the doors.

    Have been spraying with crc and have scratched as much
    rust from around the bolts as i can but can not move them.

    Thanks Andrew

  2. #2
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    try doing them up abit, even a 1/4 turn. this should expose some good thread and allow you to get some more CRC in. This worked on one of my doors top bolts but snapped the other one

    good luck HTH

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Unclear whether the problem is the nut or they are stuck in the tube. If it is the nut, I suggest a nut splitter. If it is stuck in the tube, all I can suggest is liberal penetrating oil, followed by the application of heat (but protect the aluminium - you don't want to melt that. Perhaps a heat gun rather than a flame might work. The idea would be to expand the tube to crack the rust and allow penetrating oil in.

    Suggestion - remove the door so you can work with it upside down, or lying flat.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Thanks john, its in the tubes there's not a lot that beats me
    i just do not want to damage the doors.
    I might try some of that new freezing spray to crack the rust.

    Paul, the nuts have been done up tight till now, one bolt thread
    is damaged now as well.

    Andrew

  5. #5
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    I've had to get between the door and top with a hacksaw and cut through the bolts. (just try not to damage the door capping).

    Once the top's off, you can usually drive the remainder of the bolt out of the door, with a few good whacks with a hammer and punch. Doesn't seem to do any damage.

  6. #6
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    I had that problem with a couple of the bolts on my Series III door tops.

    IIRC, the answer was plenty of WD40 an an enormous amount of persistence.

    I think I eventually got them loose by tapping (belting?) thebottom of the bolt witha hammer.

    Good luck.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  7. #7
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    Smile

    I had not though of cutting the bolts like that,
    last resort..
    It's one of those catch 22s, there is nothing really wrong
    with them but i want to replace all the rubber.
    Also one day they will have to come off for some reason
    so it may as well be now.

    Andrew

  8. #8
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by AKW View Post
    I had not though of cutting the bolts like that,
    last resort..
    It's one of those catch 22s, there is nothing really wrong
    with them but i want to replace all the rubber.
    Also one day they will have to come off for some reason
    so it may as well be now.

    Andrew
    Just be aware, that cutting the bolts will render the tops as scrap.

    Unless someone here has a way to replace them.

  9. #9
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    Andrew I had the same problem with Ralph's door tops. I continually soaked them for about 2 weeks every night with penetrene and refitted the nuts eachtime and retightened them. One side eventually let go but I ended up breaking the passenger side. Persevere mate, takes all you can do.Then get a bloody big lump hammer and drive the buggers out gently, but make sure you use a lump of timber and dont hit the bolt.

    Cheers Ian

  10. #10
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    When you do get the tops off and are fitting the new ones, smear lots of grease, preferably marine, on the bolts before you reinsert them into the door bottoms.

    The same as you should do for spring shackle pins/bolts.

    This should make them easier to remove next time.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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