try doing them up abit, even a 1/4 turn. this should expose some good thread and allow you to get some more CRC in. This worked on one of my doors top boltsbut snapped the other one
good luck HTH
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						About the only rust of any note in my '65 s2a in holding
the door top bolts VERY tight in the doors.
So the question is what is the best way to get the tops off
without wrecking them or the doors.
Have been spraying with crc and have scratched as much
rust from around the bolts as i can but can not move them.
Thanks Andrew
try doing them up abit, even a 1/4 turn. this should expose some good thread and allow you to get some more CRC in. This worked on one of my doors top boltsbut snapped the other one
good luck HTH
Unclear whether the problem is the nut or they are stuck in the tube. If it is the nut, I suggest a nut splitter. If it is stuck in the tube, all I can suggest is liberal penetrating oil, followed by the application of heat (but protect the aluminium - you don't want to melt that. Perhaps a heat gun rather than a flame might work. The idea would be to expand the tube to crack the rust and allow penetrating oil in.
Suggestion - remove the door so you can work with it upside down, or lying flat.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Thanks john, its in the tubes there's not a lot that beats me
i just do not want to damage the doors.
I might try some of that new freezing spray to crack the rust.
Paul, the nuts have been done up tight till now, one bolt thread
is damaged now as well.
Andrew
I've had to get between the door and top with a hacksaw and cut through the bolts. (just try not to damage the door capping).
Once the top's off, you can usually drive the remainder of the bolt out of the door, with a few good whacks with a hammer and punch. Doesn't seem to do any damage.
I had that problem with a couple of the bolts on my Series III door tops.
IIRC, the answer was plenty of WD40 an an enormous amount of persistence.
I think I eventually got them loose by tapping (belting?) thebottom of the bolt witha hammer.
Good luck.
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						 
 
		I had not though of cutting the bolts like that,
last resort..
It's one of those catch 22s, there is nothing really wrong
with them but i want to replace all the rubber.
Also one day they will have to come off for some reason
so it may as well be now.
Andrew
Andrew I had the same problem with Ralph's door tops. I continually soaked them for about 2 weeks every night with penetrene and refitted the nuts eachtime and retightened them. One side eventually let go but I ended up breaking the passenger side. Persevere mate, takes all you can do.Then get a bloody big lump hammer and drive the buggers out gently, but make sure you use a lump of timber and dont hit the bolt.
Cheers Ian
When you do get the tops off and are fitting the new ones, smear lots of grease, preferably marine, on the bolts before you reinsert them into the door bottoms.
The same as you should do for spring shackle pins/bolts.
This should make them easier to remove next time.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
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