Thread: Re-wiring 2a issues

Was it taken out of the cluster on later models?

Normally it's with the fuel gauge etc. Next to the speedo

Sounds as if you have the wrong harness. There was a major (well, relatively) change in the wiring in 1967, coinciding with the change to negative earth. If it is a 1968, it should not have an ammeter, and the wiring harness should not call for one. And the harness should include wiring for the temperature gauge and voltage stabiliser, neither of which existed on the earlier model. There is a slight possibility that the harness may have been designed to be usable in both before and after systems. If this is the case, there should be instructions what to do. I would contact the supplier.

John

And that's just what I just did.

The supplier seemed very surprised that the negative earth 1968 Land Rover had not ammeter and said to make the connections join without the ammeter in between.

But there is nothing on the instructions regarding the temperature gauge and voltage stabiliser either...


Just because I'm dense and need help- what's the difference between the voltage stabiliser and the voltage regulator? Mine originally has a two clip regulator but its not required with the 15 ACR alternator, right?

This is what mine originally looked like:


I'm getting a little confused

The voltage stabiliser is a small device that sits behind the dash. It's sole purpose is to provide a stabilised ~10V feed for the temp and fuel gauges.

There are two different kinds (to my knowledge).

One is a device that is attached to earth (the back of the speedo or the bulkhead and it has 4 tags on it - 2 are 12V inputs and the other 2 are 10V outputs - one to each gauge.

The other is a device with 2 tags on it - one earth, one 12V input and one 10V output.

I have both

That voltage regulator you are showing in your picture is the external regulator of an alternator.

Originally Posted by drifter

The voltage stabiliser is a small device that sits behind the dash. It's sole purpose is to provide a stabilised ~10V feed for the temp and fuel gauges.

There are two different kinds (to my knowledge).

One is a device that is attached to earth (the back of the speedo or the bulkhead and it has 4 tags on it - 2 are 12V inputs and the other 2 are 10V outputs - one to each gauge.

The other is a device with 2 tags on it - one earth, one 12V input and one 10V output.

I have both

That voltage regulator you are showing in your picture is the external regulator of an alternator.

Thanks, you're helping me.
So this:

is the voltage regulator for the instruments? The connector tags are labled:
C1 (two tags) C2 (one Tag) and W1 (one tag). Would anyone mind telling me what is what?

Also, the external alternator regulator on the driver's side of the bulkhead (pictured above) is in the position of the Voltage Regulator Box in my workshop manual. I can only see this box as represented with 4 or more connector tabs in the manual but mine only has 2. If I was to use the external regulator and an alternator how would the wiring be arranged?

Really grateful for any advice.

I would have thought that if you have a alternator than the regulator is built-in....unless you have a real early alternator........then the external regulator is redundent

Originally Posted by RobHay

I would have thought that if you have a alternator than the regulator is built-in....unless you have a real early alternator........then the external regulator is redundent

Yes, I have the option of putting the old, original alternator without regulator (which I'd probably prefer to use for originality sake) or a new one with integral regulator.

Originally Posted by korg20000bc

Yes, I have the option of putting the old, original alternator without regulator (which I'd probably prefer to use for originality sake) or a new one with integral regulator.

The 1968 2a, as it is a four, originally had a generator with a separate regulator mounted on the bulkhead where there are three threaded holes near the clutch master cylinder and next to the fuse block. An alternator was optional (standard on the six) but I have never seen an original one on a four. So it is very unlikely that the alternator without a regulator is the original. If it is, it will be a Lucas 11AC. The easiest alternator to fit is the Lucas 16ACR off a Series 3, but there will be others.

John