Thread: Front Seals/Steering Lever Removal

You sound so very surprised something to do with a rattley old landy is exxy!!

I did get some swivel hubs rechromed a few years ago. I think it was about 1/4 the price of new. It only took a week or so, and gosh they looked sexxy!

Andy

......apologies for the repost above!

Parts are arriving tomorrow, so I'll get stuck in over the next couple of days.

Any other tips for sealing this thing up properly from those of you who have done a few?

Cheers,
JRW

Originally Posted by neophyteguy

......apologies for the repost above!

Parts are arriving tomorrow, so I'll get stuck in over the next couple of days.

Any other tips for sealing this thing up properly from those of you who have done a few?

Cheers,
JRW

When fitting the big seals (after setting the preload), fill the groove on the seal with grease. put sealant round the outside of the seal, and carefully centralise the seal on the ball before tightening the screws on the retaining ring.

John

Thanks as always John!

When you say on the outside of the seal, are you talking about where it fits into the plate that holds the seal in place?

When I pulled things apart, the seal was stuck into the Swivel Pin Housing Assembly. Should I expect that the seal plate (oil seal retainer) will push the seal into the housing or do I need to seat the seal into the housing and then put the "Oil Seal Retainer" on?

Thanks again guys!
JRW

JRW

Yes John means where the outside of the seal fits into the recess at the back of the swivel housing. Many of the leaks that people experience with their swivels are not caused by oil getting between the chrome ball and the seal lips, but by oil bypassing around the back of the seal.

Before you do anything up, check that you have set up the preload correctly and most importantly centred the housing on the ball, if the ball and housing are not centred the seal will not seat correctly and will leak.

You check for centering by offering the seal up to the ball and checking that it seats evenly all the way around in the recess at the back of the housing*, before doing up the retaining plate. If it is not centred, you need to take shims out of the top and put them in the bottom (or vica versa) and re-check for pre-load and centering.

Diana

* there will be a little tension as the seal lips press against the ball but the pressure should be even all the way around.

Worked late last night trying to get the front diff back together, but have an urgent question:

When installing the swivel seal, does it actually recess into the housing or does the seal plate hold it in place?I couldnt get the seal to actually go into the housing, so I am hoping it mates up to the edge and is held into place by the retainer plate?

If it does need to actualy go into the housing, any tips on getting it to go in?

Thanks as I am off this morning in hopes I can get the vehicle back on the road today.

Cheers,
JRW

The seal goes into the recess - I have never had a problem getting one in - just needs to be straight. It won't go all the way in until the retaining rings screws are tight, as you are tensioning the lips against the ball. If you can't get it in check the centralising as Diana mentioned.

John

John,
I was able to get the retainer ring on, but the seal wasn't really recessed when I was putting it on. Would I be right in saying the plate will pull the seal into place or does the seal need to be placed inside the opening (so that the inner/towards centre of vehicle- part of the seal is even with the face of the swivel hub?

The seal plate was certainly a snug fit when I put it on, so I had hoped it pulled the seal into place. I also used silicon around the lip of the plate as you guys recommended.

I guess my concern is I wonder if this should fit like the other oil seal which fits completely inside the hub?

Cheers,
JRW