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Thread: Removing Starter Dog

  1. #1
    drifter Guest

    Removing Starter Dog

    Hi

    As some of you may have read, I have the engine on an engine stand an am about to start stripping it down for a rebuild.

    Question #1: How do you stop the crankshaft turning so you can remove the starter dog?

    Question #2: In case I am tightening it, which way would I expect it to go? i.e. normal thread or reverse thread?

    Thanks in advance.

    John

  2. #2
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    G'day All, It's a right handed thread, so anti-clockwise will unscrew it, if you have a rattle gun, turn up the air pressure it will come loose, also bear in mind that it also could have loctite or something similar that had been applied to the thread, then it will require a little heat and it will come loose with either a rattle gun or a large socket on a bar, you may need an assistant, to either wedge with a screwdriver (the flywheel ring gear) or anything to stop the crankshaft from turning without causing any damage to C/shaft hope thats of some help cheers Dennis
    ps it probably has a locktab on the starter dog so check that 1st,,.

  3. #3
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    wind a cylinder to just past TDC onto the power stroke, remove the spark plug, fill with oil re-insert the spark plug and turn the nut backwards.

    make a flat plate that bolts up to the clutch mounting bolts and to a gearbox bell housing bolt

    or use the rattle gun like most other people.

    look at the shape of the Dog, its designed so that turning the crankshaft when its engaged to the dog will turn the engine the correct way and it will throw the crank handle out if the engine starts.
    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 3rd November 2010 at 06:08 PM. Reason: re-read it, missed the engine was out the first time
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
    drifter Guest

    Onya guys!

    Thanks for the replies.

    I was just coming back in here to say I have found a way to do it on another forum and it worked beautifully - so I'll post that method here, too, so others may find an answer in a search.

    Spray WD40 or similar around the socket to pulley area and let it soak a bit.
    Put a breaker bar on the socket (I used a 1 & 11/16" 3/4" drive socket with a 14" bar)
    Rotate the engine clockwise until the bar is pointing up (or just put the socket on with the bar pointing up)
    Get your favourite 5lb club hammer
    Put it in your right hand and hold the socket with your left hand
    Smite the breaker bar mightily (several times) with the hammer in a manner that attempts to rotate the engine CCW.

    5 healthy smacks and off it came!

    (I had thought of using the rattle gun and I do have a 1/2" to 3/4" adaptor - but my rattle gun isn't very powerful...)

  5. #5
    drifter Guest

    Dennis

    I was expecting to find a locktab - but there wasn't one.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter View Post
    my rattle gun isn't very powerful...)
    Oh Santa - you are leaving yourself open with that one
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #7
    drifter Guest

    Smartarse

    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Oh Santa - you are leaving yourself open with that one
    I guess I should have said my air compressor at max can only deliver 120psi and, at that, the rattle gun will barely get the wheel nuts off.

  8. #8
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    your air fittings are too restrictive and you may also be plumbed in post pressure regulator in which case it doesnt matter whats in the tank you will only ever get regulated line pressure.

    try draining the tank and t piecing before the regulator so you have a regulated line and a "flatout" line.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
    drifter Guest
    Thanks Dave

    It has 2 outlets, one regulated and one unregulated.

    I suspect the problem is that it is one of those Bunnings/MagnetMart units. The gauges redline at 120psi and the pump cuts out when that pressure is reached.

    The rattle gun came from the same source.

    probably enough said about my foray into air-driven tools!

    I also have an air-wrench that I got with it and it did a great job on all the nuts on the seat box - I had that sucker out in no time

  10. #10
    drifter Guest

    The business end of the air compressor

    Looking down from above, the regulated line is on the left:



    Looking towards the front, again the regulated line is on the left. That hose is just for doing 'stuff' - I usually have a bigger one on when using the spray gun or rattle gun.


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