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Thread: Bleeding Brakes!!!

  1. 4th October 2011, 02:57 PM #41
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    gromit
    gromit is offline ForumSage Supporter
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    I had a lot of problems with my Series 1 brakes some years ago (which reminds me it must be time to flush the brake system).

    Most of the problems I had have already been discussed, the father-in-law who worked in the brake industry came round to help out and solved the problem.

    Apply some chalk to the brake shoes, re-fit the drum and rotate by hand while the adjuster is operated to apply the brakes. Take the drum back off and check for witness marks in the chalk on the shoes.
    With mine it was only making contact at one end of each shoe so we hand filed the linings and re-tried a few times until we got a good contact area.
    The drums hadn't been machined but were worn, the linings were new but somewhere there was a mis-match in the dimensions.
    This along with a couple of different bleeding techniques got the brakes working OK. First was to pump the pedal many times to pressurise the system and then undo the bleed nipple, the other which has already been mentioned was to open the nipple and get someone to really jump on the pedal.

    Anther tip I was given (after the event) was with the Series 1 master cylinder be very careful how it's assembled. There are a couple of small holes drilled in the piston, you must make sure one of the holes is in a vertical position when assembling (allows air bubbles to easily get through the master cylinder).

    Best of luck,


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
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  2. 4th October 2011, 10:17 PM #42
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    jerryd
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    I recently put new shoes, drums and cylinders on my dormobile. I'm a complete novice so my neighbor helped me bleed the system and adjust the shoes. The brakes were a bit spongy (but no air) so we adjusted the brakes so they were tight and then I drove for about 5 kilometers with the brakes on.
    We then re adjusted the brakes, bled the system again and now the brakes work perfectly They pull up straight too which is a bonus !!
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  3. 5th October 2011, 03:37 PM #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerryd View Post
    I recently put new shoes, drums and cylinders on my dormobile. I'm a complete novice so my neighbor helped me bleed the system and adjust the shoes. The brakes were a bit spongy (but no air) so we adjusted the brakes so they were tight and then I drove for about 5 kilometers with the brakes on.
    We then re adjusted the brakes, bled the system again and now the brakes work perfectly They pull up straight too which is a bonus !!
    With 109" brakes and 110 clutches it is often impossible to get all the air out, but you can get enough out to have an acceptable pedal. Then over 1-2 days of driving the remaining air seems to find its way out of the system (I assume up to the reservoir)
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  4. 7th October 2011, 05:54 AM #44
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    Sth65pacific
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    Thanks for this invaluable advice.

    I am going bald trying to get a decent pedal height. I'll just put up & shut up for now & give it all a re-bleed after a drive or two.

    I have a hundred other pressing tasks to do & hours & hours on brake bleeding has been as bad as staring at paint drying except more frustrating.

    Ian


    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    With 109" brakes and 110 clutches it is often impossible to get all the air out, but you can get enough out to have an acceptable pedal. Then over 1-2 days of driving the remaining air seems to find its way out of the system (I assume up to the reservoir)
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  5. 17th October 2011, 09:43 PM #45
    Ratel10mm
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    Ezyrama came round on Saturday & we bled the brakes at last. We gave up on the vacuum pump method as for some reason it just wouldn't play ball & did it the old fashioned way.
    To get around the access issue shown above, we took off the steering linkage.

    I put it back this evening, put on the wheel, and guess what? The blasted brakes are firmly on on that wheel! I have backed the snails right off, checked the return springs aren't broken, and looked at the cylinders - they appear to be retracted.
    Could I have done something to cause this when replacing the steering linkage, as before the bleed this brake was fine?
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