Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: Series 2a SWB build up

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    12
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just a few more...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #12
    Lostkiwi Guest
    Looks like you've got your self a good starting point
    And lot of hours of hard work to come.
    But stick with it as it will be worth it in the end

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    12
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hello,

    It has been a while. Slowly chipping away at things.

    Got the engine out, solid little unit. Looks good, has good compression, lots of leaks though...

    Starting to strip away the body now. Question I have is when removing the steering shaft between the steering wheel and steering box what is the correct procedure?

    Do I need to remove the firewall first?

    If so what is involved with removing the firewall?

    The pedal boxes, throttle linkages, wiring and all fluid lines have already been removed. Front fenders have also when removed.

    I'll try and post some update pics if I get a chance.

    Cheers all.

    Sean

    *EDIT* Also how do you remove the wiper motor assembly? Including the cable and 2 actuators.
    Last edited by Spalm89; 30th March 2012 at 05:55 PM. Reason: Missed a Q

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Queensland (though occasionally elsewhere)
    Posts
    1,431
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Spalm89 View Post
    Hello,

    It has been a while. Slowly chipping away at things.

    Got the engine out, solid little unit. Looks good, has good compression, lots of leaks though...

    Starting to strip away the body now. Question I have is when removing the steering shaft between the steering wheel and steering box what is the correct procedure?

    Remove the shaft and the box complete. When you separate the outer shaft and the steering box, it releases all the ball bearings from the race in which they run at the top of the box (lower end of column)

    Do I need to remove the firewall first?

    No, you can withdraw the steering box and shaft with the firewall in situ.

    If so what is involved with removing the firewall?

    If, as you say, all the linkages and wiring and things are already removed, and you've removed the steering, you should only have to unbolt it from the towers which brace it at the front (one mounts the steering box) and then the large bolt at either side which mounts it to the chassis outriggers.

    The pedal boxes, throttle linkages, wiring and all fluid lines have already been removed. Front fenders have also when removed.

    I'll try and post some update pics if I get a chance.

    Cheers all.

    Sean

    *EDIT* Also how do you remove the wiper motor assembly? Including the cable and 2 actuators.
    Hey Sean,

    I've added a few things above which I hope are of some help to you.

    Cheers,

    John

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    2,387
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey Sean,

    If you need any help on site, there is a great group of series specialists around here that just love to do this sort of thing.

    Johnno has you covered with his reply, and we could give you some helping hands and knowledge on site.

    Cheers

    CC

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    RIVERLAND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    6,740
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I would suggest you have a look through REMLR (is under the AULRO banner) in there are specs and photos of original vehicles and also in service photos etc.. (military vehicles)

    If you have a reasonable chassis etc on the ex mil vehicle, Dont write it off if you can help it, they are rarer (and therefore of more historic value) than your standard vehicle, then I'd suggest opting for that path,,, (hopefully most of the body is good too!)

    Can do the swb as mil spec then add roof for comfort etc (they bolt straight on/off!)

    meanwhile, here is what the CHASSIS Number you have given comes up as:
    CalVIN, the Land Rover VIN CALculator

    24319006G


    243 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
    Body type: Basic or Station wagon
    Wheel base: 88in
    Engine: petrol
    Model years: 1962-1971
    Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)
    19006 Serial number
    G Design: Six significant design modifications
    (Suffix used from April 1969 till October 1971)





    as said by everyone else, enjoy, ask if you have any questions, there are lots of people here who can help.

    cheers ,
    Digger
    (REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    12
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hello,

    Thanks for the replies and information. Got the firewall and steering out today, starting on seat boxes and rear tub next weekend.

    However, I got over zealous with the pulling apart and removed the steering shaft from the steering box. Are these boxes able to be rebuilt? It looks like the side unbolts exposing the inner workings.

    Have ordered a workshop manual and restoration manual form the book depository. USA and UK sites are available. Went for the USA site since we have a stronger dollar. Links are below

    Land Rover Series 2, 2A and 3 1958-85 Service and Repair Manual (Haynes Service and Repair Manuals) : J.H. Haynes, Marcus Daniels : 9781859601471

    Land Rover Series I, II and III Restoration Manual (Restoration Manuals) : Lindsay Porter : 9781859606223

    Cheers for all the offers of advice, may have to take you up on them sometime

    Cheers,
    Sean

  8. #18
    drifter Guest
    The AULRO Shop has a pretty good CD, too:

    Dave's Interesting Things - SERIESIICD

    Really good for step by step procedures when pulling things apart and putting them back together.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    12
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Cheers for that. Will be ordering that for sure

    Cheers,
    Sean

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    12
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hello again,

    Finally finished stripping the rover. Next step is to repair, sand blast and galvanise the chassis.

    I have some photos of the various rusty patches of the chassis. My question is how do I correctly repair the rear crossmember and the firewall outriggers (which dont look standard at all)?

    Should there be seperate outriggers for the fuel tank?

    What is the best way of repairing the now missing front dumb irons?


    The rear crossmember, with what looks like previous repairs?



    The second to last crossmember


    The D/S firewall outrigger with integrated fuel tank mounts. Is this standard?


    the rear fuel tank mounting outrigger


    The D/S dumb-iron, possibly had a repair previously?


    The P/S firewall outrigger

    So let me know what you think!

    Cheers,
    Sean

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!