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Thread: Series 2 Head Gasket replacement

  1. #11
    Ruff Justice Guest
    I found an invoice where the location of the leaks has been specified by the mechanic. Noted as........."Extensive oil leaks @ Cylinder head gaskets and timing case & seal & gasket."

    So........, does the proposed work I mentioned below at nearly 3 K fit the bill?

    Thanks in advance

    Glenn

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruff Justice View Post
    I found an invoice where the location of the leaks has been specified by the mechanic. Noted as........."Extensive oil leaks @ Cylinder head gaskets and timing case & seal & gasket."

    So........, does the proposed work I mentioned below at nearly 3 K fit the bill?

    Thanks in advance

    Glenn
    I would lay odds that most of the oil mentioned is coming from the valley gasket. ANY oil that leaks from the valley gasket will appear to come from the cylinder head area and run down the sides of the timing cover and down the front of the sump. So wetness away from the valley is not a sign of wholesale gasket replacement needed.

    Not withstanding that the only oil leak for which you would remove the engine is the rear main seal and bearing cap. So the leaks you mention would not require engine removal. If you spray some cheapie degreaser around the front edges of the cylinder head area, then hose off, drive for 5mins, then half an hour, then look where the oil is freshly running down. Also engine oil cooler hoses and oil pressure switches are very prone to leak, they should be looked at too.

    But don't bust a gut, try a Landy mechanic first.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruff Justice View Post
    I found an invoice where the location of the leaks has been specified by the mechanic. Noted as........."Extensive oil leaks @ Cylinder head gaskets and timing case & seal & gasket."

    So........, does the proposed work I mentioned below at nearly 3 K fit the bill?

    Thanks in advance

    Glenn
    G`day ,

    if your asking , does the 3k suit their job .

    On the information , for the un-needed work they want to do the figure maybe right but that depends what they charge an hour and the actual work and parts .

    If your asking does the 3k suit your problem , on the information given , nothing like .

    Another thing that doesn`t seem right is if they do the job properly a VRS ( valve regrind set ) will contain all the gaskets needed and more , what they have listed is basic .

    I really think if your able , getting a second opinion is warranted .

  4. #14
    Ruff Justice Guest
    Thanks guys

    I'm going to get a second opinion and do the degrease on the weekend.
    Unfortunately "bee utey" the quote is from a Landy mechanic!

    Glenn

  5. #15
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    I had an oil leak onto there front diff, it was the oil pressure switch and later the oil pressure relief valve O ring.
    Degrease the engine or put talc powder where you think it's leaking, fresh oil running over the talc will be easy to see.

  6. #16
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Ruff Justice View Post
    Thanks guys

    I'm going to get a second opinion and do the degrease on the weekend.
    Unfortunately "bee utey" the quote is from a Landy mechanic!

    Glenn
    Find another landy mechanic, tell him it's only a land rover and not a range rover so the price should be lower

  7. #17
    Ruff Justice Guest
    OK. Gave everything I could get to a good degrease. All the oil leakage seem to be coming from the front of the engine but I can't get in there to see exactly where from. Nothing seems to be coming from the rocker covers....I would be able to see that at the side,correct?? Laying under the motor you can see it dripping when the engine is running at two place.

    One is from a bolt head on the housing that the oil filter is attached to. BUT it looks like the oil is coming from above that. The second spot is at the bottom of the sump and it appears to be coming from the area above the bottom fly wheel but I can't see exactly where. I figure it could be possible that there is one oil leak and it's dripping at two different spots and it's from the front of the motor.

    So, how do you all think this adds up against the diagnosis and quote given??
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruff Justice View Post
    OK. Gave everything I could get to a good degrease. All the oil leakage seem to be coming from the front of the engine but I can't get in there to see exactly where from. Nothing seems to be coming from the rocker covers....I would be able to see that at the side,correct?? Laying under the motor you can see it dripping when the engine is running at two place.

    One is from a bolt head on the housing that the oil filter is attached to. BUT it looks like the oil is coming from above that. The second spot is at the bottom of the sump and it appears to be coming from the area above the bottom fly wheel but I can't see exactly where. I figure it could be possible that there is one oil leak and it's dripping at two different spots and it's from the front of the motor.

    So, how do you all think this adds up against the diagnosis and quote given??
    G`day ,

    still the same answer , it doesn`t seem on the information that the head gaskets are a problem .
    As the replacement of these and the head work ( that it would be correct to do with them off ) is a major part of the quote ?
    The quote given could suit the work they want to do it just seems that the work doesn`t need doing .

    This is a suggestion but what i`d do .

    You need to use your fingers and have a rag the wipe them .

    To locate your leaks wait untill the engine has cooled .

    Feel along the undeneath side of the rocker covers , when i say feel i mean dab . So dab in a spot with a finger if it has oil on it wipe and dab search .
    Search each way till you find the direction that the oil stops .
    Do the same from underneath the car where you know the oil is found , reach up a bit higher each time and wipe for a clean finger each time untill there is no oil .
    Then you can work out what`s there and where the oil may be comming from .

    Because you say you say see it leak when the engine is running it should be fairly easy to locate with a dab test on a cold engine , it is harder to locate 1 where you need to take into account where the air pressure from momentum and fans etc is pushing the oil .

    Rocket gaskets are the highest on the engine , unless oil is coming from breathers .

    The cooler pipes running to the radiator are higher .

    Valley ends would be next , then timing cover , pressure swich , oilfiter/cooler etc .

    If at anytime it has had a rollmaster or dual chain timing set and the cover hasn`t been relieved when fitting , the chain can do its own but sometimes the timing cover will also crack and the oil leak is not easily found .

    Cheers

  9. #19
    Ruff Justice Guest
    Thankyou again Peter.

    Second opinion on Friday.

    In the mean time went and saw the mechanic who provided the quote. He says he won't take the engine out to do the job but as the cylinder head gasket is leaking, the head has to come off and therefore has to be machined and valve stem seals replaced. He couldn't show me where the oil leak was coming from other than to say it was behind all the fly wheels etc. He was basically saying all the work on his quote was required. Is there some sort of confusion with cylinder head gasket and head gasket???

    Glenn

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruff Justice View Post
    Is there some sort of confusion with cylinder head gasket and head gasket???

    Glenn
    Same thing.

    Look in the end if you trust your mechanic all the jobs mentioned will help extend the life of the engine. If you don't have this amount of money then go elsewhere and only have the minimum done to cope with the oil leaks. I will say it again, oil that appears to leak from the head gaskets may also be coming from the valley cover gasket. You either cough up or find someone else who is willing to do less work for a lesser cost.

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