Thread: Bugger clutch, gearboox and flywheel housing

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

unbolt flywheel (optional but it makes it easier)
drop sump
unbolt rear main journal cap, loosen all other crank main journal caps
remove old seal and t piece seals
inspect shaft for grooving and journal cap for damage, (speedy sleeve crank if its badly scored where the seal sits)
install new seal
install new tpiece seals
install rear main journal cap
retorque all main journal caps.
put the fly wheel back on.

simple huh?

Maybe it's because I'm half asleep from too many late nights, but your instructions here seem over simplified and confusing. Is it a series two/twoA 2 1/4 litre 3 main bearing engine we are discussing here? If so the oil seal, a split hinged type runs on the same journal diameter as the rear main bearing ,in front of the large flywheel mounting flange, so a speedy sleeve can't be fitted.The sump, flywheel and flywheel housing has to be removed and although fitting the oil seal is a bit of a fiddle, loosening all the other main bearing caps is pointless and doesn't make the job any easier.

Depending on the year model of the gearbox it may not actually have an oil seal in the throwout assembly, but instead a coarse thread machined onto the input shaft that acts as an Archimedes screw pump, to prevent gearbox oil from running out of the box, down the input shaft and all over the clutch plate. This brilliant idea only works on steep down hills as long as the engine is kept running and the clutch pedal isn't depressed.

Wagoo.

Originally Posted by dullbird

and at least yours is driveable!























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