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Thread: "Reg - The series 2a build

  1. #11
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    Thanks to everyone for the help!!

    Taking all of that information into account the process that I will follow is:

    1. Clamp of all of the wheels (using clamps on the flexi-hose) - this will determine whether the imediate problem is at the wheels or under the bonnet!

    2. If at the wheels I will use the clamps to determine which wheels.
    - Adjust the pad to drum.
    - Remove drum and free up (if need be)
    - Bleed the system.

    3. If under the bonnet i will check the function of the Master cylinder:
    - Pedal and pushrod function
    - Undo the union and check if the fluid is pumping.
    - Bleed the system

    I have the Haynes work book so this should help.

    All of this is to get the car up to the garage and start to strip and restore!! Once this starts there will definately be a project thread started. With as many pic's as I can!!

    Thanks again to everyone that posted. I should be working on it either tonight (if i can convince the wife) or on the weekend!!

    Cheers

    Chris
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  2. #12
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    i would bleed the system before doing anything. as it could just be a bubble, causing the trouble, and the clamps wont work if there is air in the system.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibbsy View Post
    All of this is to get the car up to the garage and start to strip and restore!!
    When you say "up to the garage" do you mean that the car is already on your property? If so drive up in low-range and just turn the ignition off when you want to stop,

    Cheers Charlie

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    When you say "up to the garage" do you mean that the car is already on your property? If so drive up in low-range and just turn the ignition off when you want to stop,

    Cheers Charlie
    Charlie,

    I have thought about that, my property is quite steep. So it doesn't sit well with me not having brakes and being that I don't lnow the vehicle that well if something went wrong (like it jumps out of gear), it will be my neighbours house that stops me!!

    So i will start with a brake bleed!!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  5. #15
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibbsy View Post
    Charlie,

    I have thought about that, my property is quite steep. So it doesn't sit well with me not having brakes and being that I don't lnow the vehicle that well if something went wrong (like it jumps out of gear), it will be my neighbours house that stops me!!

    So i will start with a brake bleed!!
    Does the handbrake work? This will stop it quite effectively as long as you stay in low range first. And is probably simpler to fix, unless the shoes are covered in oil.

    But you may find there is something easy to fix with the service brakes.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #16
    ian62 Guest

    Smile 11a brakes

    i have had a few 11a,s and the problem i would think is the fluid bypassing the seal in the master cylnder it has happened to me a few times everthing looks ok plenty of fluid but the peddle goes strait to the floor.

    cheers ian

  7. #17
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    Well i've made some progress, the handbrake is no good!!!

    But also made a rookie mistake, I looked into the M/C and saw fluid (the bonnet was in the way to see in properly. So raised the bonnet to the window and surprise there is fluid in the clutch reserviour but none in the brake side!!!

    So in the morning (or over the weekend) I will be learning the fine art of brake bleeding!!!!

    Thanks for the help, i'll keep you all posted!!!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    RIVERLAND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibbsy View Post
    Thanks to everyone for the help!!
    ........<<snip>>
    I have the Haynes work book so this should help.

    All of this is to get the car up to the garage and start to strip and restore!! Once this starts there will definately be a project thread started. With as many pic's as I can!!

    Thanks again to everyone that posted. I should be working on it either tonight (if i can convince the wife) or on the weekend!!

    Cheers

    Chris
    Chris,
    If you ask one of the nice mods on this forum they can change the thread title and this can be the project thread!! That way its all together!

    Suggest title should be something like 2a 19?? "fred'(whatever the name and year are!) project thread..so it can cover everything..


    cheers
    (REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110

  9. #19
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    May 2011
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    Sounds good!!

    Well there has been progress this morning!! Filled up the brake reservoir and as long as I keeper pumping the brakes I got a pedal!!! And it stopped (or should I say slowed) the truck!!!

    "Reg" is now away in the garage!! Wife maybe ****ed as she way asleep and had to pass her window... Sorry dear!!

    Now I need to get some jobs around the house done and I can start the strip!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  10. #20
    drifter Guest
    Well done on your first repair! There will be many to come. Best of luck with them.

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