Reply With QuoteWindow out
Seat panel off (that was harder than I thought - nuts and bolts rust as one!!) Grinder, cold chiesel, drill and penatrate!!!
It doesn't look like the second fuel tank is connected? How are they normally connected? Is it a reserve tank?
Master
SubscriberI little more (progress is slow, lots of rusted soild nuts and bolts!!)
Seats out
LHS floor pan is out, all nuts and bolts sheared rather than loosened!! RHS soaking in "penetrate"
Didn't realise that the front drivers seat slides back and forth
I noticed while taking the seats out that there is 2 fuel filler (one on each side of the truck) so does that mean there are 2 tanks? Are the connected?
More soon!!
PS first rebuild so bare with me!!
1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
1963 LWB Series 2a UTE
Master
SubscriberWindow out
Seat panel off (that was harder than I thought - nuts and bolts rust as one!!) Grinder, cold chiesel, drill and penatrate!!!
It doesn't look like the second fuel tank is connected? How are they normally connected? Is it a reserve tank?
1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
1963 LWB Series 2a UTE
Wizard
I found my second tank was connected to the main tank with a Smiths electric fuel pump and control switch on the dash panel.
One of the wrecks i pulled apart for my rebuild had twin tanks. All it had was the fuel lines running into a three way valve So was just a matter of switching from one tank to the other.
Master
My SIII has twin tanks, and did have an annoying 2 valve set up where the taps had 4 positions each!
Anyway I've ditched them on Blknight.aus' advice. The main is now direct to the original lift pump via the filter etc. & the secondary will be plumbed to the aux. input on the filter housing via an electric pump & sedimenter assembly when I have time. No return to the secondary tank, that way the return will end up in the main tank or I can use the system to fill the main from the secondary if I so choose.
Master
SubscriberThanks to everyone regarding the second tank, i found that the second tank is also damaged (where the filler connects to the tank the tube is cracked!!)
Well the tub is off pics below!!! And the chassis is not as bad under all that dirt as I thought it would be!! I will definately need to replace the rear most crossmember (as you will see in the photo's)!! Still more digging to do!!
Next bulkhead and dash!!
1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
1963 LWB Series 2a UTE
Master
SubscriberThe rear crossmember???? I'm in Victoria, can anyone suggest the best place to start to look for a replacement (either old savaged or new)?? Is it something that can be fabricated (DIY)?
Cheers
1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
1963 LWB Series 2a UTE
Master
If you can weld, or are willing to learn, I would think that building a rear cross member wouldn't be that hard from a design POV, and there are improvements you could make to stop the mud build up in the OEM design. Or incorporate a 2" hitch hole.
It would all depend on how true to the original design you wish to keep it.
Master
SubscriberI know enough to learn to weld!! And I have a 150 amp Mig Welder. Which has always been my intension. I like original but i'm not too concerned!! As long as it look close enough!!
My original thought was to fabricate myself, is there somewhere that I can get a detailed dimensional drawing of the original??
Can you explain more about "2" hitch hole"
1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
1963 LWB Series 2a UTE
Master
Dunno about a dimensional drawing, but you should be able to get the dimensions off your knackered one. Measure it up, then build a cardboard mock up, edit shape, size as necessary, then transfer it to steel.
The 2" hitch is as you see on Hayman Reece towbars, 'cept rather than bolting the towbar under the x-member/chassis you incorporate the hole into the x-member itself. That way you don't compromise departure angles. You may need some additional bracing behind the x-member if you go down this route, depending on what you wish to carry/tow.
Cheers
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