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Thread: "Reg - The series 2a build

  1. #81
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    Begun to pull the front diff apart tonight, about a third of the way there!

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414143812.790405.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414143849.368707.jpg

    I noticed that where the bearing sits for the steering swivel there is some wear, as you can see in the pic below. Is this likely to cause any concerns? Should I look to replace the swivel or will it be OK?

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414143995.824523.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414144031.177254.jpg
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  2. #82
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    Looks like you need to replace the bearing cup and cone there. Check the railco bush (at the other end) has no sideways play. if it has replace that as well. Then set up the swivel housing preload as per workshop manual. You can buy a swivel housing rebuild kit somewhere out there from a land rover parts supplier.

    Cheers Rod

  3. #83
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibbsy View Post
    Begun to pull the front diff apart tonight, about a third of the way there!

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414143812.790405.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414143849.368707.jpg

    I noticed that where the bearing sits for the steering swivel there is some wear, as you can see in the pic below. Is this likely to cause any concerns? Should I look to replace the swivel or will it be OK?

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414143995.824523.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414144031.177254.jpg
    No, you definitely need to replace the bearing cup and cone. This is on the bottom. The top has a fibre lined bush and steel pin, both of which will almost certainly need replacing. Although the bearing cup and the bush are pressed in, they can be removed with a drift (preferably brass) and new ones fitted with a vice.

    Read the manual carefully, and adjust the preload as specified. One trap for the unwary is that of the studs attaching the steering arm, one is a special fitted stud, which must stay in the same location, and must not be replaced with an ordinary stud.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    one is a special fitted stud, which must stay in the same location, and must not be replaced with an ordinary stud.

    John
    Now I never knew that!
    How can you tell if the stud is in the wrong place? does it have an id mark?

    And what are the consequences of fitting it incorrectly?

  5. #85
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    Now I never knew that!
    How can you tell if the stud is in the wrong place? does it have an id mark?

    I do not know! I never remove the studs. All I can suggest is if you have removed the studs, check their fit in the holes in the arm, and find which stud is a tight fit in which hole, and put it in that location.

    And what are the consequences of fitting it incorrectly?
    The steering arm can move relative the the swivel, resulting in free play in the steering and ultimately steering failure unless detected and fixed. Once it has started moving, it is likely both the stud and arm will have to be replaced.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #86
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    May 2011
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    Thanks to everyone for your help!!

    We I've continued to disassembly the front diff.....

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414315510.006255.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414315540.768882.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414315566.695662.jpg
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  7. #87
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    Re-assembly of the front diff has begun, fitting a railko swivel re-build kit

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1416632598.430415.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1416632646.477821.jpg
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  8. #88
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    May 2011
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    Warrandyte, VIC
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    20150130_194125.jpg

    20150608_163137.jpg

    20150608_171600.jpg

    Well there has been some progress (although long over due).

    Top of the chassis is clean, rust free and painted.

    Next step rear diff and gear box!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  9. #89
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    Tibbsy
    What did you do to strip back the chassis before paint?

    Cheers
    JB

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBee75 View Post
    Tibbsy
    What did you do to strip back the chassis before paint?

    Cheers
    JB
    Ooo, Ooo, I know this one. Lots of toothbrushes, lots of degreaser and lots and lots of pieces of sandpaper. In three years, you'll have a stripped chassis and forearms like Ken Rosewall's

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