Thread: Oh dear! Loud bang and clatter racket.

Dust cover for expander unit 515466. Not sure how it will let oil in - should not be any oil on the outside! But it is needed to keep water, mud and dust out of the actuator.

Oil will usually get onto the brake shoes from a leaking rear seal. If you have not replaced this, it is probably a good idea. But note that there is a slot machined on the surface the brake backing plate to allow any oil leakage to drain outside of the backing plate. Make sure that you do not block this when assembling the handbrake, and check it is clear every service.

On your comment about the bottom plate studs not being loctited - it might be worth noting that this box was designed (1947) before the invention of loctite (1953), and almost certainly made before its use received widespread acceptance (about 1970 - 1980).

John

[/QUOTE]
That explains the small cover plate [/QUOTE]

Under that plate don't use the full sized gasket for the early model, as the early plates are a complete oval, but make yourself another gasket that is the same shape as the later half size plate.


With the other gaping holes that may be there, try and get the appropriate grommets, even if you can't make it completely water tight, it should slow it's demise in a creek crossing.
Sorry if you have already done this work, but water when it gets in, it doesn't do the clutch plate much good, the after effects can range from a slipping clutch and a red face to; a gearbox full of water, ruined throw out race, dead motor, the esky floating down the water way, wet very grumpy passengers and someone doing CPR on the driver.
.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Dust cover for expander unit 515466. <snip>

John

Land Rover Series 1 - 3 Handbrake Actuator Boot | eBay

Great thread, really informative. Putting this all to 'future reference'.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Dust cover for expander unit 515466. Not sure how it will let oil in - should not be any oil on the outside! But it is needed to keep water, mud and dust out of the actuator.To be honest, it's an assumption that the problem is oil getting inside. There is generally oil all over the brake drum, and I suspect it might be from the output shaft seal, and regular application of the handbrake while driving seems to make the brake work better for a few days - ie maybe until the oil re-soaks into the brake shoes.

Oil will usually get onto the brake shoes from a leaking rear seal. Yep - that's what I suspect. If you have not replaced this, it is probably a good idea. Yep But note that there is a slot machined on the surface the brake backing plate to allow any oil leakage to drain outside of the backing plate. Make sure that you do not block this when assembling the handbrake, and check it is clear every service. This is news to me. I'll check it when I actually take the drum assembly apart for a clean-up and to instal the new brake shoes.

On your comment about the bottom plate studs not being loctited - it might be worth noting that this box was designed (1947) before the invention of loctite (1953), and almost certainly made before its use received widespread acceptance (about 1970 - 1980).Fair call, but the gearbox has been overhauled only a couple of years ago. (There was a receipt in the documentation I got with the car - it's part of the reason I paid so much for the car ... we're all allowed to make mistakes.)

John

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Under that plate don't use the full sized gasket for the early model, as the early plates are a complete oval, but make yourself another gasket that is the same shape as the later half size plate.I just shot out to the shed to check and sure enough, I used the old full gasket. I see why you say not to use it as it leaves a small gap at the back/bottom where the half plate stops and the full gasket doesn't. I'll take some photo's of the gap and the difference when I fix it up.


With the other gaping holes that may be there, try and get the appropriate grommets, even if you can't make it completely water tight, it should slow it's demise in a creek crossing.The rubber grommet around the clutch actuator shaft is pretty bad but the shape is generally there. I think a good dollop of silicone will help - if I can't easil get a replacement to fit.
Sorry if you have already done this work, but water when it gets in, it doesn't do the clutch plate much good, the after effects can range from a slipping clutch and a red face to; a gearbox full of water, ruined throw out race, dead motor, the esky floating down the water way, wet very grumpy passengers and someone doing CPR on the driver.That doesn't sound like me at all!!! Honest!!!

Thanks so much for your feedback guys. Gotta love this place!
Cheers
John B

Originally Posted by JayBoRover

The rubber grommet around the clutch actuator shaft is pretty bad but the shape is generally there. I think a good dollop of silicone will help - if I can't easil get a replacement to fit.

The place I linked you to for the actuator boot - check him out for the grommet around the clutch actuator shaft - he used to carry spares for them (that's where I bought mine from).

Hi Jaybo.

Just realised you're that nice fella with the even nicer white 450RR. We met at Safari a few months back when I was doing work for GHR.

Originally Posted by drifter

The place I linked you to for the actuator boot - check him out for the grommet around the clutch actuator shaft - he used to carry spares for them (that's where I bought mine from).

Hiya John.
Yep, both are on order. I had to restrain myself from buying other stuff when I looked at his eBay shop. Have to keep reminding myself of my upcoming Dakar costs.

Originally Posted by MacMan

Hi Jaybo.
Just realised you're that nice fella with the even nicer white 450RR. We met at Safari a few months back when I was doing work for GHR.

Heh heh. Small world isn't it mate. I remember chatting to you, with the camera always within reach. The other half of the shed where I'm working on the S2a gearbox is the 450RR:


Cheers
John B