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Thread: Leaf spring question

  1. #41
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    The lean to port is designed in as well. The RH springs have more camber in them to offset weight of the the driver and fuel tank.

    I greased in between my leaves. The springs feel much more supple now.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by happydad59 View Post
    Thanks isuzurover, should I grease between springs when reassembling?
    There is debate on that. I do. I also use "spray grease" in a can periodically.

  3. #43
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    Can you swap leaves between front and rear?
    Not the first 3 I would have thought, but some of the smaller 'bottom' leaves.

    On the rear I only need 4 of the 8 leaves, but on the front I blow through the available travel and its sagged 30mm.
    Could I swap one of the longer rear leaves in for one or two of the the thinner front leaves to stiffen (and possibly restore ride height to) the front spring?

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    Can you swap leaves between front and rear?
    Not the first 3 I would have thought, but some of the smaller 'bottom' leaves.

    On the rear I only need 4 of the 8 leaves, but on the front I blow through the available travel and its sagged 30mm.
    Could I swap one of the longer rear leaves in for one or two of the the thinner front leaves to stiffen (and possibly restore ride height to) the front spring?
    What wheelbase landy do you have, what springs and what is the thickness of each leaf?

    On all S2=> landies the spring packs are 2.5" wide Front and Rear, However the centre bolt holes are a different size, so that would say no.

    IMHO you are better off getting the spring packs properly reset.

  5. #45
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    It's a SWB.

    By eye bolt holes - do you mean the bolt that holds the leaves together?

    The leaf thicknesses are mismatched 4mm on the front and ~7mm on the rear.
    I'm thinking that a reset would be the best bet, but I'm unsure of who in Sydney does it.
    What sort of cost is a reset?

    So the leaf swap would be temporary, just thinking the thicker leaf might restore a bit of camber whilst I figure out what to do.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    It's a SWB.

    By eye bolt holes - do you mean the bolt that holds the leaves together?

    The leaf thicknesses are mismatched 4mm on the front and ~7mm on the rear.
    I'm thinking that a reset would be the best bet, but I'm unsure of who in Sydney does it.
    What sort of cost is a reset?

    So the leaf swap would be temporary, just thinking the thicker leaf might restore a bit of camber whilst I figure out what to do.
    Sorry - meant centre bolt holes - fixed now.

    OEM for a SWB is 9 leaf front and 11 leaf rear (but only 4.2-4.8 mm thick leaves). If you have 7 mm thick rear leaves they are LWB or aftermarket. Either way they will be stiff as a board.

    A reset shouldn't cost more than $80 per pair if you R/R the springs. EDIT: make sure they temper the springs after the reset.

  7. #47
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    Yeah the rears are after market and were ridiculously stiff. I've gotten round that by swapping the leaves around. I can get full articulation now with a little weight in the rear.

    Sorry to be dumb but whats does R/R mean?

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    Yeah the rears are after market and were ridiculously stiff. I've gotten round that by swapping the leaves around. I can get full articulation now with a little weight in the rear.

    Sorry to be dumb but whats does R/R mean?
    Remove / Refit

  9. #49
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    Cheapest I could get round here (Sydney northern beaches) was $330 the pair to reset with me doing the r/r.

    Got 3 quotes. Most expensive was $450!!!

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    Cheapest I could get round here (Sydney northern beaches) was $330 the pair to reset with me doing the r/r.

    Got 3 quotes. Most expensive was $450!!!
    Crazy. For that price you could pay shipping up to Bayside springs in brisbane where I got my last reset done.

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