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Thread: Leaf spring question

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Crazy. For that price you could pay shipping up to Bayside springs in brisbane where I got my last reset done.
    Evan charged me $180 to do my front springs, including pressing in new bushes which I supplied.

    He certainly knows his stuff and I'd recommend him

  2. #52
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    Well, I went and paid the money and got the springs reset.
    It was done by EFS ( which I think is Carrolls Springs).

    Fitted them and the springs came up about +10mm over stock. V.happy.
    Left em sitting for a few days as the weather was a bit ordinary, then went for a short drive and remeasured.
    The springs had sagged to -20mm on the drivers side and -10mm on the other. Which was a bit disappointing, but Bill is driving nicely and I no longer hit on the bumpstops over speedbumps.
    I went and had a chat about the sagging but was told there's no guarantee for resets, and I could get an extra leaf added for an extra $$$.

    I've swapped the springs over to try and even to get the drivers side to seat higher than the passenger. This worked then I went for a ride and the drivers side was still lower than the passenger
    I'm wondering whether I'm over tightening the shackles? I've now tightened the bolt until the shackle is tight against the bushing, then backing the bolt off 1/4 turn, then tightening the locknut tight against the shackle outer whilst holding the bolt still. Hopefully this will allow the shackle to move freely without any excessive side to side movement.
    I've yet to go for a drive since doing that as a bit of Landcruiser maintenance got in the way

    If that doesn't work I might have to go a get some 9 leafs from Paddocks/Craddocks

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    .......
    I'm wondering whether I'm over tightening the shackles? I've now tightened the bolt until the shackle is tight against the bushing, then backing the bolt off 1/4 turn, then tightening the locknut tight against the shackle outer whilst holding the bolt still. Hopefully this will allow the shackle to move freely without any excessive side to side movement.
    I've yet to go for a drive since doing that as a bit of Landcruiser maintenance got in the way

    If that doesn't work I might have to go a get some 9 leafs from Paddocks/Craddocks

    Assuming you are using standard rubber bushes with steel inner and outer sleeves, this is incorrect procedure. The shackles must be tightened so as to prevent any movement between the inner sleeve and the shackle pin - all movement must be accommodated by flex within the rubber. This will mean, of course that there is no side to side movement. Doing as you describe will lead to a very short life for both the bushes and the shackle pins, and will very likely need new shackle plates as well next time (although these can be reversed to present an unworn face to the bush).

    John
    John

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  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    ...

    I'm wondering whether I'm over tightening the shackles? I've now tightened the bolt until the shackle is tight against the bushing, then backing the bolt off 1/4 turn, then tightening the locknut tight against the shackle outer whilst holding the bolt still. Hopefully this will allow the shackle to move freely without any excessive side to side movement.

    ...
    NOOOO - don't do that!!!

    You will wear away your shackles and bush inner tubes.

    You are supposed to fit the springs with the bolts loose, put the vehicle back on the ground with all weight, then jump up and down on the bumpers a few times, then tighten the bolts fully. The shackles and bush tubes should be solidly clamped to each other.

    Resets can settle a bit. A good resetter can account for this mostly. Did they temper the springs after resetting?

    When I was supplying my own specs to the resetter I was having them set 0.5" to 1" more free camber than I eventually wanted to account for this - but mine were quite soft.

  5. #55
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    Thanks. I'll tighten them up tomorrow.
    I don't know whether they were tempered. I'm presuming so as they do make leaf springs for more modern fourbys and I'm not hearing of sagging issues.
    I'm confused as to why it always sags on the drivers side regardless of which way the springs are put in. Any ideas? Fuel tank is about 1/4 full with a full 20l jerry behind the drivers seat.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    Thanks. I'll tighten them up tomorrow.
    I don't know whether they were tempered. I'm presuming so as they do make leaf springs for more modern fourbys and I'm not hearing of sagging issues.
    I'm confused as to why it always sags on the drivers side regardless of which way the springs are put in. Any ideas? Fuel tank is about 1/4 full with a full 20l jerry behind the drivers seat.
    Did you measure the free camber after you got the springs back? The drivers side should have more free camber. If they reset them to be the same then they did not do them properly.

    Diana has posted the page from the Genuine S3 Manuel which shows what the free camber should be OEM.

  7. #57
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    I didn't measure the free camber but there was definitely more camber in the spring I initially put on the drivers side. It would have been about an inch higher lying upside down on the ground.
    The other thing I should have mentioned is when I pull the drivers side up it gains about 20mm and stays there as if something is binding stopping the spring reverting to shape. Hence my logic to loosen the shackles.
    It's done this with both springs fitted to the drivers side.
    Maybe my springs are just toast.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    Thanks. I'll tighten them up tomorrow.
    I don't know whether they were tempered. I'm presuming so as they do make leaf springs for more modern fourbys and I'm not hearing of sagging issues.
    I'm confused as to why it always sags on the drivers side regardless of which way the springs are put in. Any ideas? Fuel tank is about 1/4 full with a full 20l jerry behind the drivers seat.
    Series Landrovers have relatively long travel springs and no sway bars - combine this with more weight on the right side - fuel tank, battery, driver (with other seats often empty), most of the transfer case, steering box and relay, half the weight of the prop shafts and it is no wonder they tend to lean to the right.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #59
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    I kept wearing out my passenger side springs,and here is the reason why.1. The camber of the road transfers the weight to the passenger side. 2. On a single lane road the left hand side takes a hammering when you have to leave the bitumen to make room for another car. 3.When making a u-turn it's always the passenger side that ends up in the rough.These are just some of the reasons that spring to mind. I installed the springs with more free camber on the passenger side. It works for me and that's it. W.

  10. #60
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    Well OK, not much progress on the springs, but I have a cunning plan

    I've bought 2 individual leafs from Ding*cr*ft in the UK for $10 ea plus postage. I'm hoping that adding those newer leaves into the spring pack will restore a bit more camber. They are 2nd leaf with the military wrap, so I can either replace that one, or trim them down to replace one of the others.

    Might not work but at that prices its worth the experiment I think.
    Cheers

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