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Thread: The Grey Ghost - a Rolling Restoration

  1. #11
    bob smith Guest

    bob smith

    Tom.
    A lot of work, and still a bit to go. Looking really good.Good luck and hopefully you will be driving around in the not too distant future.
    Regards Bob Smith

  2. #12
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    Update

    Hi All,

    Work has been crazy this week - so not as much work done as I would like.

    This week (so far) - I have installed a tail gate (kindly donated by LostKiwi)

    Tail Gate - BEFORE:


    Tail Gate - During Sanding/Cleaning:


    Tail Gate - After adjusting (3 hours) and Painted:


    Tail Gate - Chains Installed (new nuts, bolts, washers, etc):


    Radiator - Before:


    Radiator - AFTER being Re-cored:


    Regards,
    The Grey Ghost

  3. #13
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    You are putting a lot of work in to it!

    Is there a reason you did not use the standard scroll hooks to connect the tail gate chains to the tailgate? Should be noted that the chains should be inside a canvas tube to prevent rattles and paint wear (took me about half an hour each with some scraps of canvas and a sail needle and palm - turn it inside out after sewing for neatness).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #14
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    Hi John,

    There are a few reasons why I didn't use the standard scroll hooks:

    * I don't have any !
    * I don't know what they even look like!!



    This is my first Series Land Rover, and I haven't seen another one as a reference!

    Could you possibly post a pic?

    Thanks for the tip - I had thought about covering the chains. I was just going to try and purchase a plastic sleeve from Bunnings (or someplace). But Canvas would certainly suit the car much better. Thanks again for the tip!

    Regards,
    The Grey Ghost

  5. #15
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    Scroll hook

    Best I could come up with at short notice, I give you one scroll hook:


  6. #16
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    Hi Recy Mech,
    Thanks for the picture - (silly question) is this a scroll hook from a Series 2?
    How does it attach to the chain (at one end) and the bracket on the tail-gate at the other end?
    Regards,
    The Grey Ghost

  7. #17
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    I posted the piccie and straight away thought you ignorant pr1ck no instructions on how to at least assemble.

    The plate with the holes is attached to the tail-gate. The chain is attached to the body and the 'free' ends then go around the scroll/pig-tail to attach the tail-gate. The beauty of this system is that you can adjust the tail-gate angle by selecting the appropriate link in the chain.

    I hope the above is understandable.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    You are putting a lot of work in to it!

    Is there a reason you did not use the standard scroll hooks to connect the tail gate chains to the tailgate? Should be noted that the chains should be inside a canvas tube to prevent rattles and paint wear (took me about half an hour each with some scraps of canvas and a sail needle and palm - turn it inside out after sewing for neatness).

    John
    I used some fat shrink wrap from Jaycar. It slips over easily, then a heat gun gets it nice and tight.

    It looks good, too.

    Peter

  9. #19
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    A piece of old bicycle tube works just as well.I never used anything else.Easy to push together when you want to shorten the chain.
    W.

  10. #20
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    If you look at the top bar on this page, about the middle is "Shop". This, if you click on it, brings you a list of bits and pieces that are available from AULRO (and profits help keep the website going). In the LH column is "CD Based Manuals". The one you want is SERISIICD. This contains both the workshop manual and the parts manual, as well as various other bits and pieces.

    For the work you are doing on your Landrover, you really should have this (I had the hard copy manuals before this site existed!). In many ways the parts book is as useful as the workshop manual, if not more so, as it has detailed pictures of almost every part, and shows the order and way they go together (but use a little caution - where parts have changed, the illustration often has not, just having different part numbers from a particular chassis number; this will be less of a problem with the Series 2, as they had to do a whole new book for it - and there were relatively few changes compared to the number that had accumulated by the end of 2a production!).

    Hope this helps,

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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