New Project...

**garrywlh** · 18th February 2014, 05:12 PM

Alright, come on GG. I'll bite. What is this big white distraction everyone is talking about? Apparently not a LR, but, just satisfy my curiosity.

I take it you don't have the MV Pacific Princess in dry dock in your back yard?

WillD, as for 'nooks and crannies'...I'm currently stripping back a chassis too. Be patient. I am using a steel cup brush on the angle grinder for most of it. I have had a bit of success with paint stripper under glad wrap in the tight corners, which softens old paint up enough to then get a pretty good result with the small wire cup brush.

Good luck.

**grey_ghost** · 18th February 2014, 05:22 PM

Hi Gary,

Of course the white box is another Land Rover product!

Have a look under Military Land Rovers, 101 Forward Control - for a thread called "Ghosts 101"

I am on a mobile and cant work out how to post links!

But you shall find it!

Thats my other project at the moment - a bigger project! Lol!

**Sitec** · 18th February 2014, 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by garrywlh

Alright, come on GG. I'll bite. What is this big white distraction everyone is talking about? Apparently not a LR.......

Here's the link for u! Oh and GG... Don't work too hard! Its not good for u!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forwar...sts-101-a.html

**WillD** · 19th February 2014, 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by grey_ghost

Hi Will,

Here's some tips for you that I found from my own personal experience.

* I don't use the blue type any more - because they don't last very long.
* There is a large sized red plastic one (it looks like a red plastic wheel with multiple fingers) - that is really good for getting into the nooks and crannies because the length of the red fibres give the drill head clearance.
* You can also use a short/stumpy wire one - that helps also.
* If all else fails (and this isn't fun) - I have used an old fashioned Wire Brush by hand.
* If all else fails (and this really isn't fun) - I use a rough sand paper and do it by hand!

The ultimate solution is to either get a sand blaster to do it for you OR a molasses solution. The first option costs $ and the second option costs time..

I have found that if you use an etch primer you achieve a better quality top coat. It also helps you ensure that you don't miss spots - eg if you are painting the chassis black, and it's already black - it's easy to miss spots. But if you etch prime it grey first - then you won't miss any spots!

Sitec / Bacicat - Yep time has been against me lately. With a work trip to NZ, then a wedding in NZ, and the big-white project, poor old "Roger" has taken a back burner... As soon as I have rego for the big-white-brick - I will be back onto Roger...

Thanks very much for this!
I am stripping the chassis back to bare metal- You're spot on- the blue discs really do not last very long. Probably been through 4 already and have 1/3 of the chassis to go.

Thanks again

Will

**debruiser** · 19th February 2014, 10:29 AM

wow. your work is amazing. I can only hope that my rig comes out looking as nice as yours. I bet it won't, I'm not picky enough.... too slap happy

Keep up the pics, I love checking out your work so that I know how sloppy my work is.

**grey_ghost** · 16th March 2014, 06:46 PM

Hi All,

Well - not a lot done lately, as I have been focusing on the 101... But I did manage a few jobs today:

Glue the rubber that goes on the top of the tub, between the tub and the roof windows:

Next job was to re-fit the tail-gate.. What should have been a 5 minute job ended up taking over an hour... This could have been for multiple reasons:
* I suspect that the replacement rear cross member was not 100% identical in all measurements to the original.
* The original wasn't square ?
* I can't remember how tight a fit the tail gate was before I took it off - it's certainly tight now!
* A few extra layers of paint can cause some fitment issues.
* Land rovers weren't exactly perfectly square from the factory.

I had very carefully measured the rear cross member before replacing it, so I am reasonably confident that wasn't the issue. No matter - it's all sorted now:

Re-fit the badge:

Re-fit the original steps:

Next up was fitting a new steering column rubber gasket / plate:

That's it for a while... Planning for the 101 still bekons..

**Cobber** · 19th March 2014, 09:42 PM

I like how it looks with the steps. It's not something that's even on the horizon for me but I think I'll go down that route eventually

**grey_ghost** · 22nd March 2014, 12:52 PM

Hi All,

I did a few more small jobs today - although it's surprising how long it takes to bolt things back on (with the bolts, nuts, washers, split washers) - I've decided that I need a 3rd hand...

First up - install the brackets that go around the steering column:

Next up -install the windscreen brackets (both sides done):

Next up - install the brackets that hold the door arms (both sides done):

Lastly - install the 3 x knobs for the seats, along the top of the tub:

That's it for today... My 3/8 socket set wrench has died, so off to the hardware store to purchase a new one...

**Johnno1969** · 22nd March 2014, 06:09 PM

Yep, it is amazing how long fiddly little jobs take.

Thanks for the post GG - the vehicle's looking terrific.

**grey_ghost** · 23rd March 2014, 01:34 PM

Hi All,

Some small jobs done today - although once again, they took quite some time..

First up I decided to fit the rear Blinkers and Brake Lights.
As you can see from this photo my SWB has one hole in the galv capping, but the second one needed drilling out.
Obviously this is changing the original look of the car, but I can live with that:

I also had to drill all of the holes for the actual light fittings (3 per light) as the new lights didn't line up correctly with the existing holes - which all takes time.. All done:

Next up I decided to fit the tow-bar.. I haven't finished because I have a small issue... I can get the nuts onto the large bolts at the bottom of the tow bar, where it connects to the chassis. But there is a lip on the inside of the chassis and it prevents me from getting a spanner or socket onto the nut..

I figure I could lie under the car and grind away the lip, but there must be some trick to this...?

Here is how it looks, nearly finished apart from the large bolts/nuts.

That's it for today - the tow bar has frustrated me, so I will walk away and ponder it... Unless of course somebody here has a suggestion?

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