Great restoration, I really enjoyed looking through all the pics. I did notice the brake pipe support brackets on top of the rear leaf springs were installed on wrong sides eg left on right side. Looking forward to seeing it finished!
For access to the bottom bolts on the towbar a "crowsfoot" spanner is good!
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Great restoration, I really enjoyed looking through all the pics. I did notice the brake pipe support brackets on top of the rear leaf springs were installed on wrong sides eg left on right side. Looking forward to seeing it finished!
First up - pop rivet in the empty holes that are meant for a soft top. I have no intention of installing a soft top, and don't have any of the applicable brackets/hoops,etc. So pop-rivet them to stop water getting in:
Here's also a wider angle picture of the outside of the windscreen painted:
Here's a picture of the inside of the windscreen painted:
Installed the striker plates (passengers & drivers side):
Passenger side - lower hinge installed:
Passenger side - upper hinge installed:
Starter button installed:
That's it for today - the masking/painting took up most of the day..
88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
03 130 Td5 Single Cab
06 Discovery 3 Petrol
22 Defender 90 - Full rego
Hi Tom. Quality work as usual. What's the silver paint your using on the windscreen frame? It looks brush on and is just the sort of finish I'm going for too. Cheers.
Hi Stuee,
I use White Knights Rust Gaurd - Hammered finish. Here is a link:
White Knight Paints - Hammered Finish
I have found for best results when applying it -
* Naturally prepare the surface thoroughly first
* Really stir the paint well
* Only stoke the brush in one direction (eg left-to-right. Don't go left-right-left)
* Apply an even coat - not too thick, not too thin
* Don't go over an area that you have just painted (unless within 30 seconds)
* Continue to stir the paint while you are working - every few minutes.
(These tips are probably applicable to all painting! But for the hammered finish I have found the above to be particularly important)
Try experimenting on a spare bit of metal - it comes up really nicely, but if you go over the same area (by either going left-right-left or over-lapping) then the finish isn't as good.
88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
03 130 Td5 Single Cab
06 Discovery 3 Petrol
22 Defender 90 - Full rego
Thanks for that. How do you find the tolerance to UV? I cant remember where but I recall reading about someone having a bad experience with hammered finish paint fading and getting a powdery finish in the sun. I think it was someone painting a trailer with it ??? It may not be an issue with the White Knight stuff.
Its a great way to freshen up galvanised parts, I think I'll buy a pot of hammered silver on the weekend and give it a go. Do you bother etch priming the galv parts first or straight over the top? Cheers.
I'm pretty sure Roger won't be allowed in the sun when he's finished...![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
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