Thread: New Project...

Originally Posted by grey_ghost

Hi All,

So I decided today to start cleaning my Lucas FW2 wiper motors.

I have various motors, in various conditions - and the intention is to get 2 good working ones..

Here is the work bench - before:
Here it is during:


Still a ways to go... But it's a start..

Hi Mate,

I am in middle of restoring couple of wiper motors and would like to know if you used anything else apart from usual Abrasive Nylon Wheel Brush to clean wiper motor casing. Also, did you replace motor carbon brushes, if so did you source them locally.

Also, excellent thread continue with the superb work.

Regards,
Nav

Hi Reachjatt,

You have basically nailed it in one - I used my favourite method to clean up the wiper motors...

Basically I:

* Pulled it apart
* Removed all of the existing OLD grease.
* Soaked all of the components in a metal bowl of de-greaser
* Used a tooth brush to clean each component individually with de-greaser
* When cleaning the case I mounted my electric drill upside-down in my bench mounted vice.
* It's easier to hold the case against the drill, then to hold the case in one hand and the drill in the other..

There are components available on-line from the UK - but I found them to be incredibly expensive, so I just cleaned/re-used what I had.

Here are some links to components:
LUCAS FW2 WIPERMOTOR HANDLE&NUT PT NO 739199 LANDROVER ETC | eBay
Land Rover Series - Lucas FW2 - Wiper Motor Rubber Seal - x2 | eBay
Land Rover Series 1 2 Lucas FW2 Wiper Motor Terminal Insulator Block Rubber | eBay
Land Rover Series 1 2 Lucas FW2 Windscreen Wiper Motor Stainless Steel Park x1 | eBay
Land Rover Series 1 2 Lucas FW2 Wiper Motor Rubber Windscreen Seal Escutcheon x2 | eBay

I also found this on-line manual to be of help (page 2 onwards):
[ame="http://up.picr.de/8160465mpv.pdf"]http://up.picr.de/8160465mpv.pdf[/ame]

As for the terminal insulator block rubber - I just cut up a left over piece of rubber to size.. This little piece of rubber is quite expensive!

Let me know if you source any brushes - as I will buy some as spares.

If you are on facebook - on the Land Rover Series 2 group - a guy in Germany has made up a batch of cork gaskets for the FW2 motors.

Again - I haven't purchased any of the above - I just found them as part of my travels...

Originally Posted by grey_ghost

Hi Reachjatt,

You have basically nailed it in one - I used my favourite method to clean up the wiper motors...

Basically I:

* Pulled it apart
* Removed all of the existing OLD grease.
* Soaked all of the components in a metal bowl of de-greaser
* Used a tooth brush to clean each component individually with de-greaser
* When cleaning the case I mounted my electric drill upside-down in my bench mounted vice.
* It's easier to hold the case against the drill, then to hold the case in one hand and the drill in the other..

There are components available on-line from the UK - but I found them to be incredibly expensive, so I just cleaned/re-used what I had.

Here are some links to components:
LUCAS FW2 WIPERMOTOR HANDLE&NUT PT NO 739199 LANDROVER ETC | eBay
Land Rover Series - Lucas FW2 - Wiper Motor Rubber Seal - x2 | eBay
Land Rover Series 1 2 Lucas FW2 Wiper Motor Terminal Insulator Block Rubber | eBay
Land Rover Series 1 2 Lucas FW2 Windscreen Wiper Motor Stainless Steel Park x1 | eBay
Land Rover Series 1 2 Lucas FW2 Wiper Motor Rubber Windscreen Seal Escutcheon x2 | eBay

I also found this on-line manual to be of help (page 2 onwards):
http://up.picr.de/8160465mpv.pdf

As for the terminal insulator block rubber - I just cut up a left over piece of rubber to size.. This little piece of rubber is quite expensive!

Let me know if you source any brushes - as I will buy some as spares.

If you are on facebook - on the Land Rover Series 2 group - a guy in Germany has made up a batch of cork gaskets for the FW2 motors.

Again - I haven't purchased any of the above - I just found them as part of my travels...

Hi GG,

Thank you very much for your speedy and informative reply (pdf link is great). That definitely gives me better insight and some ideas. I thought you must have used Nylon Wheel Brush going by your previous write and it sure seem to work fine.

I was thinking along the same lines for those Motor Terminal Insulator Block Rubber bloody expensive on eBay !! (visit to Clark rubber this weekend should sort it out that problem)

I have made some cork gaskets myself so im OK with those for now

Cheers,
Nav

Hi All,

There are a lot of little jobs left on Roger - and I am slowly getting through them...

First up - the over drive knob looks a little old/faded.


The nut on the gear-stick was also looking a little old - I had assumed that there were bad scratches/gouges on the face of the nut:


A new over-drive sticker (it's actually metal) and I cleaned-up the nut. The nut isn't scratched - the number "8" is actually stamped on there:


Next up - the rubber around the doors... The original rubber was quite perished and is held on by an internal metal strip with pop rivets. This metal strip is often rusted:


So I spent a few hours cutting out the top layer of rubber and then drilling out the pop rivets (drivers and passengers side).


A quick run over with the nylon wheel:


I had purchased a "NOS" seal for a Series II, but it simply would not fit no matter what I did. I suspect that it was probably for either a Series III or a Defender.

So I ended up going down to Clarke Rubber and simply buying a thin strip that fits inside the channel on the doors. I then glued - doing one section of the door at a time, clamping it, waiting 1-2 hours, and then moving onto the next section. After a day of mucking around - both doors are now done.

It's not factory correct - but I am happy with it:


Next job - the top tail gate has never closed properly. I discovered that the rods that should "lock" into position are simply not long enough.

I have no idea why - I tried adjusting the rods but it didn't help. It is the tail gate that came with the roof, so.. Who knows!?

Here is a pic - sorry about the quality:


I decided that I would fabricate a plate. When I say fabricate - I have trouble making a sandwich, so my attempt at a bracket came out pretty well I think.. (God I would love a CNC machine..)

First step - I have an old scrap floor panel that I have used previously:


Using a hack saw I cut out a piece to the rough dimensions:


A few hours later - using the bench grinder to shape, and the wire wheel to clean-up - here are the 2 brackets:


It's too cold to paint - so I will have to wait another day for that. I don't have a final picture of the plates in place because I haven't painted them yet.

It's hard to explain but each bolt uses 2 x nuts as spacers, the bolt then goes through the existing holes in the tailgate, with a washer, split washer, and nut on the other side.

The bottom bolt is longer because it goes through a galv bracket. The third hole that you can see is where the actual rod now fits into.
By making the bracket, and using the 2 x nuts as spacers - the rod now sits snugly in the new hole..

The tailgate now shuts a lot better... It's still a Series Land Rover type of close, but at least it isn't going to fly open now!

That's it for the weekend..

The rods are too short because they are supposed to go into a socket bolted to the frame of the hardtop. This seems to be missing. Part numbers are 332083/332084. The rods have rounded and pointed ends to feed into these close fitting sockets, and these are adjusted so as to prevent movement of the closed hatch.

John

What you seem to be missing are two of these 332083 UPPER TAILGATE LOCK RECESS | Land Rover Series 1, 2 & 3 Body/Fittings | shop | www.lrseries.com

And two a upper lock devices I can't get a picture of (Will need to take a photo of mine, when I get home).. To lock the rear tailgate window open.

Wolf

Hi John & Wolf,

Thanks very much for the information... No wonder it didn't work - and I spent a few hours fabricating my brackets! Oh well - the correct part will certainly function/look a lot better than what I had come up with!

You live and learn. Thanks again guys.

Cheers,
The Grey Ghost

Grey Ghost


I think you are missing 2 of these. Sorry about the quality of the bracket in situ but you'll get the idea. And for a bloke who 'can't make a sandwich' you certainly can make a fine looking restoration.


Cheers


Nic