Thread: What have I done! IIa sitting out front.

Originally Posted by Mr Ploppy

wonder if I can sneak a series into the garage .

Do it, she'll never notice. And if she does, you can use the clothes argument she uses on you - "What this old thing? New? No, had it for ages."

Originally Posted by Ozdunc

Do it, she'll never notice. And if she does, you can use the clothes argument she uses on you - "What this old thing? New? No, had it for ages."

The problem is she doesn't use that old trick . Sarah will probably want to drive it anyway.

I was getting fed up with having stuff sliding around in the back of Bill, I had a milk crate with oil, water, wire, blah and a jerry can kinda lashed down but it looked kind of scrappy.
I bought a spacecase type box from Bunnings as they were on special, and put it in the back, but it didn't look right and I'd tripled the value of the stuff in the tray, so it came out and went into Ted.
Still needed a container of sorts so I thought I'd build myself one.







Pretty simple, basically two small sides, the front piece, and a top with a hinged lid and a cutout for the jerry can. All covered in 3 coats of marine varnish.

Next up was to change the oil. I decided to try a 40W-70 oil just to see if that would reduce the engine knock. It did a bit - but it made starting on cold mornings that bit harder and the old boy didn't sound too happy on start up whilst the thicker oil got up to the top.
So this morning I decided to run 25W-70. Did the change, oil filter was weeping a bit (it has been since I got it) even with the new seal so I removed it again to see whether the O-ring was twisted. Put it back on and did it up. Topped it up with Penrite HPR40 and turned the key, instantly felt better on start up (but I'll hold full judgement until its been sitting for a while ), walked to the garage to put away the tools and turned round to find Bill dropping oil all over the driveway!!
It looked like the Exxon Valdez had run aground. Only lost about 1.5 litres but crikey it covers a lot of ground
Luckily I had a heap of rags to throw down. Removed the filter again and re-fitted - I mustn't have seated the blimmin' thing properly. Topped up again . Started him up and sat under the chassis staring at the filter, revved it, idled, stared, revved, idled, stared - no sign of imminent oil disasters, but I did find where my oil leak was coming from...

The pressure sender. I snipped it up, only to have it keep on rotating. The threads are stripped!!!! Explains why the PO had blocked it off!
A good few layers of PTFE tape have it in at the mo, but I'm not sure what pressure that will hold.

So my current question is should I try to helicoil the thread or tap it out to a larger size? If so, what thread size should I go to, come to think of it what size is it now? 3/8" BSF?

Originally Posted by Ozdunc

The track rod is a replacement part from Britpart with the later style TRE at either end. Whether or not it originally came with shouldered TRE's I don't know.

TRE box - I bought this later style TRE from Paddocks, expecting Britpart, but its Atek who I think are German. Quality seems pretty good. Nice a smooth movement with a good casting and grease nipple, and no binding when screwing into the drag link.

Just reading through this thread and I hate to disappoint you but.........the TRE supplier is probably Indian
Ample Auto Tech (Pvt) Ltd. - ATEK

A lot of aftermarket parts seem to be made in India, just re badged/re boxed Britpart, Bearmach etc.
I just got a taper roller bearing for a Series Diff. In a Bearmach box, only the part numbers of the inner & outer races etched on the bearing, no brand name. Another taper roller was in a Timken box with a Bearmach sticker, inside was a genuine Timken bearing (either luck or old stock ?)
Karson is another Indian supplier. I've had swivel hub seals, drive flanges and bearings in Karson boxes.

Regarding the pressure sender. I'd fit a thread insert, helicoil or similar, but I can't confirm the thread (possibly 1/8" BSP or BSPT ?).


Colin

Great pics in this thread! Good work. Series vehicles are addictive.... First there was one....

Originally Posted by gromit

Just reading through this thread and I hate to disappoint you but.........the TRE supplier is probably Indian
Ample Auto Tech (Pvt) Ltd. - ATEK

A lot of aftermarket parts seem to be made in India, just re badged/re boxed Britpart, Bearmach etc.
I just got a taper roller bearing for a Series Diff. In a Bearmach box, only the part numbers of the inner & outer races etched on the bearing, no brand name. Another taper roller was in a Timken box with a Bearmach sticker, inside was a genuine Timken bearing (either luck or old stock ?)
Karson is another Indian supplier. I've had swivel hub seals, drive flanges and bearings in Karson boxes.

Regarding the pressure sender. I'd fit a thread insert, helicoil or similar, but I can't confirm the thread (possibly 1/8" BSP or BSPT ?).


Colin

Thanks for that Colin, I've no problem with Indian stuff, or anywhere in the world as long as its made right. I was talking to a bloke in Hong Kong last year who has some light fittings designed by him and made in China, and he was saying he'd spent ages choosing a factory and he's getting a great quality high end product, but he's having problems selling them, even to the Chinese, cause they're made in China.
I must confess to thinking ATEK were German cause of the writing on the box

Doing a bit of googling I'm pretty sure the sender is 3/8" BSF thread, and it's a fairly small jump in size to 1/8" BSP which is the common size for senders for a lot of cars.
I'd prefer to stay original if possible but helicoils seem really expensive compared to buying a reasonable HSS tap, but there's a LR specialist not far away who might have the kit and suitable inserts, otherwise I'll tap it out and accept a non standard sender.

If I do go for a 1/8" BSP sender, does anyone know what pressure I should be looking at? Tridon do 0.2 bar, 0.3 and 0.4 bar (3, 4.5 and 6 psi) options which seems quite low. I thought its was about 20 psi at idle and 60 at speed (but I'm not sure where I got those figures from so they could be completely out )

I'll reply to my own question

2a oil pressure senders - part#90519864 are 3/8" BSF and 0.65bar (9.1psi)

THese seem to have been in use from Series 1 through to mid way through series 3.

Later S3 (petrol and diesel) and 90/110 used PRC6387 which is M10x1 fine and 0.5bar (7psi)
(Also of possible use is Tridon TPS048 which is M10x1 and 0.5bar)

There's also the option of picking up a Tridon 1/8" BSP sender, 0.4bar (5.5psi)

Now which sender size to go for?
3/8" BSF is 9.525mm OD, so assuming a clean strip of the threads that should be a starting hole size.
Now M10x1 is a OD of 10mm with a tap drill size of 9mm, so cutting a M10x1 thread into our current hole would produce a thread depth half the height intended. Might work but not ideal, although the act of cutting the thread might deform the aluminium to give a better thread height than theoretical.
But it turns out better than 1/8" BSP, which has a OD of 0.383" (9.73mm) and a tap drill size of 11/32" (8.7mm)

So where to from here

I think helicoil or similar first off, then an M10x1 tap with plenty of PTFE tape for a secure fit, and if that doesnt work I'll look at converting to a spin on filter housing.

Option 1, replace the oil filter housing. Someone must be scrapping a motor somewhere and could let you have the housing cheap.
Option 2, drill and tap oversize. Get someone to make an adapter 3/8"BSP internal and external to match the new thread. Loctite adapter in place and fit original oil sender.
Option 3, drill and tap M10 fine and fit Tridon sender.

I think you'll struggle to get a 3/8" BSF helicoil.


Regarding the ATEK parts....I wonder if the 'plan' was to put some German writing on the box so that people thought that they were a German manufacturer. I've noticed that the Indian parts never have a country of origin on the box.
The only issues I've had with Indian parts is most rubber items decompose before you get the vehicle back on the road.


Colin