Thread: What have I done! IIa sitting out front.

Originally Posted by Ozdunc

... fitted better in the threads as well.

I have encountered a similar thing with flare-nuts as well Makes me wonder if we have been sold poorly made parts, or ones with the wrong size thread but a similar pitch!

Cheers Charlie

So another month rolls round...

The brake booster is working wonderfully, assisting as it should.

Back in the midst of time I had my front springs reset, but quite quickly, despite being a much better ride, they sagged back down somewhat and I would hit the bumpstops sometimes.
So I bought 2 no2 military wrap leafs at the princely sum of $10 ea + postage. This was back in Oct 2012.

I have just got round to fitting them

First thing was to remove the front springs and separate the leaves

Having a MAPP gas torch was invaluable to bend the retainers out the way.

Once apart I gave all the leaves a scrub with wire wool

Below are the 2 new leaves as per LR spec 4.2mm


Here you can see the difference in camber - new to the left


And below all the leaves apart drying prior to a good greasing, old leaf at the top and the new leaf second from right.


What I've done is cut the wraps off the old leaf and put it back in the spring, so I have is effectively 2 no3 leaves and a 10pack spring either side. I also chamfered the leading edges of the springs where they hit the next spring to try to prevent ridging.

I've left the retainer clamps open and depending on how things go I may drill them out and put a bolt through them rather than heating them and bending them over again.

I've only just put them back on and bolted everything back up, but it's lifted up by at least 30mm. There's 110mm on the drivers side between the top of the axle plate and the chassis rail (ignoring the bumpstop as mine are trimmed a lot) and 105mm on the passenger side.

Bouncing up and down to settle every thing prior to re-tightening felt pretty supple still. I don't think the extra leaf will make the ride too harsh at all.

If it does I can always trim it and put it further down the pack.

Make sure the bolt type wrap at the front end of the spring does not interfere with the track rod or drag link. On mine it would, but I think the position of the wrap varies slightly.

John

Cheers John,
they look to clear but I haven't done a lock to lock test, or fully cycled the suspension yet, but thanks for the reminder as I may not have remembered until the 'clonking' started happening

Well I would not have tried 'Mapp' gas on the wrap over retainers, I do have Mapp gas gear x 2, but only use it for soft soldering, I do have Oxy/Acetylene but I'm reluctant to use it often, and I do have a full set of springs that need taking apart and cleaning, so Thank You for the tip on the 'Mapp' gas, sorry about your thread hi-jack, cheers Dennis
ps I do have a couple of sets of new springs and having fitted a set of them to a Series 2A 109 I did find the bolt type retainer fouled the drag link, so I removed the bolt and bent over the tab,,

Well I finally managed to go for a drive. There's a definite improvement in the ride - its not hitting the bumpstops over speed humps at walking pace like it did before and its generally less 'jouncy' (technical term - jiggly and bouncy at the same time)
I still need to cycle the suspension to check any potential clangs with the tie rods and the clamps, which from John and Dennis' comments I suspect there will be. Then I suppose I decide whether to bend the clamps back over or cut them off a few mm proud of the top of the spring - that would stop the rotating but leave them more able to droop on extension.

Its currently sitting at 100mm DS and 105mm PS from flat on the axle to the chassis ignoring bumpstop.
Anyone got an idea what is stock height? (I've seen it somewhere but bugga'd if I can find it again)

Right after cycling the suspension through pretty much its full range lock to lock, the clamp tabs do hit.

The inner most tab on the front clamp on the driver's side contacts the track rod end attached to the pitman arm on full right under full compression.

On the PS the trackrod hits both the clamp tabs on the clamp just in front of the axle on full left turn under full compression. Actually the trackrod connects with the spring itself under full compression.

Now I need to make the decision to bend the affected tabs down or just cut them off

I had the same problem on mine and cut them off.

A possible solution is to have the springs hot-reset, which will lift the chassis higher and hopefully give more clearance,

Cheers Charlie