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Thread: Diff rebuild issues

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    canberra
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    I've built a few rover diffs in me time fit the pinion bearings with what ever shims came out from under the cones remember to use a little lube on the bearings and set the preload on the pinion with out the seal . Forget about the pinion height for the time being. mount the carrier and set the back lash with a dail and check over all preload i still think the spring gauge is best for this Bearing blue the c&p and check the pattern if the wear pattern looks to be ok Ie not to high or low I wouldent be too worried depending on the bluing pattern will depend your pinion hight http://docs.docstoc.com/pdf/5634359/...37b510fd5f.pdf

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central West NSW
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    The mistake I made, and won't make again, was not measuring the pinion height before I took it apart. The new bearing is 20 thou thicker than the old one, so the pinion is 20 thou higher. That's all there is to it. Using the new bearing with the original shims resulted in massive preload (the whole lot started to bind up long before the nut was tightened) and when I blued it the pinion was too high.

    Next time, I'll measure the pinion height once the crownwheel is out, which will give an absolute reference.

    On a related note, my workshop manual mentions a pair of "special bolts", in addition to the 8 normal bolts to attach the crownwheel to it's carrier. These bolts have a slightly thicker shoulder than the others, which is an exact fit in the carrier and therefore positions the crownwheel in the correct place. I acquired a pair of these bolts, but also ordered another pair. The second pair are not the same, they are a fully threaded set bolt, slightly longer than the normal bolts but the same diameter. I can see no way for a set bolt to correctly locate the crownwheel - it has the same degree of clearance with the hole in the carrier as any other bolt. I'm assuming it's a mistake and they're the wrong bolts, unless there was a change to the design and these are a later version? Does anybody know?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    canberra
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    How many shims under the bearing? Take the thinnest one out and have another go

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Narrogin WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warb View Post

    On a related note, my workshop manual mentions a pair of "special bolts", in addition to the 8 normal bolts to attach the crownwheel to it's carrier. These bolts have a slightly thicker shoulder than the others, which is an exact fit in the carrier and therefore positions the crownwheel in the correct place. I acquired a pair of these bolts, but also ordered another pair. The second pair are not the same, they are a fully threaded set bolt, slightly longer than the normal bolts but the same diameter. I can see no way for a set bolt to correctly locate the crownwheel - it has the same degree of clearance with the hole in the carrier as any other bolt. I'm assuming it's a mistake and they're the wrong bolts, unless there was a change to the design and these are a later version? Does anybody know?
    I agree with you - the locating bolts must be a good fit as they are a substitute for dowels.

    Can you use the old ones?

    Cheers Charlie

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