nice work!
G'day All,
Have been slowly rebuilding my series 2a for a while now and have been taking pictures as I go and been following the rebuilds with interest of you mere mortals as you persevere with your particular jobs.My aim is to have a full mechanical resto and maintain the aged exterior . I hate to single out fellas but I really like the Grey Ghosts work , using a sensible budget and tackling it yourself and achieving great resultsI know there are quite a few of you following this same track and this is the way I'm attempting to go
SO, if can I will post pics as i go along from now on and some older pics as well .
Where I'm at is down to to a bare chassis which I'm working on replacing fuel tank outrigger , repairing bulkhead outriggers , both stays and derusting , cleaning and painting.
I've also completely rebuilt the front axle hub to hub.
And working in numerous other jobs as things permit.
I spend all week driving a semi so it's great to to get back to a time when things were simplerthanks all and keep spannering !!!
nice work!
Hi there
The front axle looks good. What did you paint it with? I see the can of penetrol in the background, did you coat it with this first?
Cheers, Martin
Love what you are doing ... we aren't all millionaires so we have to do what we can!
I look forward to the progress photos![]()
G'Day Marting,
Thanks ,I'm happy with the way the axle turned out, my cheap little camera doesn't give you the whole result.As far as painting was concerned I used spray cans available from my local Bearing supplies shop. the brand is Hi-Chem and used primer , etch primer (as needed ) and top coat Hi-Chem Epoxy gloss black. The Penetrol I did use on all the nuts , bolts ,washers etc after I cleaned them on a wire wheel on the bench grinder then by spraying all liberally and allowing them to dry and they come up as new . The liquid penetrol I'm mixing as I go at 25 % with any paint I use with a brush, at the moment its on undercoat on chassis repairs.I also spray any new exposed new bare metal parts, and chassis sections that have been taken back to bare metal also and allowing the Penetrol to dry and harden before painting.![]()
The last piece to come off the chassis was the steering relay I expected a struggle but it came out fairly readily . I wasn't going to do much to the relay but clean it up and paint But...the bottom seal was out and a grease nipple was in the place of the filler plug and the relay was grease packed.This made it stiff to turn so I decided to pull it down, I'm glad I did two of the split bushes had started to break apart and a check over found the main spring was under it's servicable free length ( L.R. bible states 184mm this one is 167 mm ) . You can buy pattern replacement steering relays for as low as $88 but I will rebuild this one using quality parts , that way keeping as much of the original Land Rover as possible.![]()
You'll need a tool to re-assemble the relay safely.
Details in the thread below, Post#185 onwards (finishes in Post #191 but there is then a discssion regarding pattern relays etc.)
Isuzu C240 powered Series 3
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
A great thread Colin , thank you very much I read it with interest , the cheaper option (cheaper pattern parts ) is not the cheaper option at all
The spring compressing tool I'll have a go at making one , although it won't look anywhere near as good as yours .
Regard Alan
G'day all , Has anyone else come across this problem ? The lower shock mount on the spring plate are showing a lot of wear . The mount is 3/4 '' (19 mm) and some parts of the mounting shaft have lost almost 2mm! making the bush a very poor (loose) fit.I,m thinking of cutting out the old shaft and replacing it but using a bolt (head cut off) as new shaft and using the threaded section and nut to secure bottom shocky mount. Any thoughts ? and is it spring steel ? Thanks
Can't see a problem with it. I am pretty certain it is mild steel. If you use a nut instead of a splitpin, you need to consider how you will arrange for it to lock with the right amount of compression on the bush, and bear in mind that a thread here is very vulnerable to stone damage - this is probably why they used a split pin.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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