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Thread: Project 'Bob' (formerly Bobette)

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Sydney
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    Sorry, signal lost
    The other part is called a stub axle distance piece and is also available.
    It is shrink fitted (heat it up to remove and replace)
    Check it to make sure the old one is not grooved or else it will leak
    Phil
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Narrogin WA
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    Parts available here and a number of other places Land Rover Parts - REAR HUB - (ROVER TYPE DIFFERENTIAL)

    Google the part nos that you need and you can see who is cheapest etc.

    Cheers C

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Melton, VIC
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    Thanks all, will get onto that when I next get paid, spent quite a bit over the past week on her, but will not hurt to go looking for the bits to give me an idea price wise, likely going to work on the electrics more in the coming week and that darned accelerator pedal before I hurt myself on it. Have all the parts I need for those already. It does not seem far off getting her back on the road now though I know there are still a few major things to do like the brakes. Can't wait to go for a drive!

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Melton, VIC
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    So, it has been a day or two since my last post as sadly life gets in the way of Landy restoration sometimes. Have helped a friend move house, he is now living with the wife and I, which required a major rearranging of furniture, a massive spring clean of the garage (boxes of wife's crud she can't bear to get rid of) and several projects of a diy nature. Add to that having to work double shifts at work and I have been neglecting bob somewhat.

    Today however was day 3 of not having work and with the household DIY sorted on days 1 and 2 I could afford to spend an afternoon swearing and cursing at a project of my own choosing. Started with an attempt to replace the front spring bolts as one is stuck in and the thread gone. It is the only bush that needed changing still and after slamming into it with a sledge for the best part of an hour it is still the only bush that needs doing.

    Not to be completely defeated I moved on to the ignition wiring, as not having a key to start it would probably be ok if I had working door locks. A few hours of soldering both the car and various parts of my clothing I had one success under my belt, and had changed to shorts before I ruined my 'outy' jeans any further.
    Next I felt inclined to tackle the bonnet stay as it was far too tight and about half a can of wd40 later I had yet another success!

    Buoyed by the two successes and completely forgetting the one failure it was decided to enlist the help of aforementioned friend to pump the brakes while I ensured they did not spew too much fluid around. This too was at least partially successful. The pedal is now rock solid, moves an inch at most... So kinda good I guess, however, when I took her for a roll down the driveway the stopping abilities are... Laughable. Brakes come on sure, and they appear to work mostly but I would not want to risk any speed above 5kph as she rolled a good 4 feet under braking down a fairly short driveway.

    Any clue on why they could be so bad? The pads look good, there's little rust, the cylinders all work and I cleared off the oil leakage (although need to still do the seals) bled the system and the pedal is super hard. Kinda lost for ideas

  5. #155
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    Feb 2014
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    Sounds like you MC needs adjusting. The brake pedal should not be that high.
    Are the wheels free (do they turn easily) when the foot brake is released?
    If the brakes do not release you will need to increase the free play on the push rod under the cover of the brake pedal tower.
    If this free play is ok check the brake shoe springs to ensure they are attached correctly. The rubber hoses could be a culprit of non releasing brakes as well. They are know to delaminate and block internally, acting like a non return valve. You wont be able to tell without taking them off.
    If all of this is ok then look at the chamfer on the leading edge of the shoes. They needs to be ground (can be done in situ) to 45deg to make the shoes "grab" properly.
    Hours of fun....
    Phil.

  6. #156
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    Jan 2014
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    Melton, VIC
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    It is about now that I feel stupid and realise how tired I was yesterday.

    So I went out today to look over phil's suggestions, only what do I find on the rubber hoses but the damn clamps from when I was bleeding the system

    With these removed the pedal travels almost all the way before becoming too hard to push, have not yet had a chance to test on the roll however because a visitor has arrived and parked in the way

  7. #157
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    Feb 2014
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    You must have been really tired!!!!!!!!!!!
    Glad you solved the problem though.
    Sounds like all you need to do now is tighten the adjusters until the shoes just start binding and then test it.
    Phil.

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Bacchus Marsh
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    Might be able to help you with that bushing.. I have a couple of tricks and tools that might make it easier.

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Melton, VIC
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    That would be awesome! Because honestly I am at the point where I have no idea what I am doing. To be honest I have been there for a while, but I seemed to manage so far.

    Today was spent doing a little tidying up and cleaning out, though I did manage to finish the last bush on the front spring hanger, damn bolt would not budge so I figured time to crack open a new toy. A few seconds of reciprocating saw later and the bolt was no more! New bolt and bush in, and it's suspension bushes all done.

    I found time to finish most of the electrics, all that's left now is a number plate light, the horn and the brake lights don't seem to work, so probably a new switch needed.

    On the axle subject I suspect that I probably need new wheel bearings as there is a fair bit of wibble on the swivel thingy on both sides. This is the part where I am out of my depth somewhat, as I can only find a YouTube video for stripping down a defender axle thingy, and it says series are a bit different. I figure it would also help to have the replacement parts lying in wait and workshop manuals and I do not tend to mix too well it would seem.

    Pictures are a little scarce right now due to laziness whilst working. Will put some up when decent progress has been made

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Adelaide
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    You have a couple options as far as parts manuals and that go... in the shop tab above there are cds for sale with manuals and parts books within. OR google is your friend.

    I'm assuming your talking about the front stub with swivel

    Land Rover Parts - SWIVEL PIN & BALL HOUSING & STUB AXLE - SERIES 1 & early 2

    [ame]http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Land_Rover_Series_III_Part_5.pdf[/ame] - preview I dont know how to make work... sorry. but just download it trust me it's worth it

    OR you could just buy paper books... you know those funny things with pages that noone seems to have anymore....

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