Thread: Project 'Bob' (formerly Bobette)

Be prepared that removing some of those spring and shackle bolts may turn out to be a very long and frustrating job, depending upon how rusted-in they are.

Aftermarket suppliers tend to throw one-size-fits-all u-bolts at the buyer, and by and large they will fit - but in actual fact there will be several distinctly different u-bolts available to deal with peculiarities in axle housing shape and differing spring pack thicknesses. Might be worthwhile to check online (UK suppliers are good for this) for the part numbers.

Originally Posted by 450Dan

I shall have to find some stands, the only steel I have is very thin, any idea how much a set would cost,...

Liftech make very good stands I can't remember the price but less than a $100 per pair.

I agree with Johnno - if you value your life do not under any circumstances use bricks. . If you can't afford axle stands use large blocks of timber if you can find any, but axle stands are the only sensible option.

Paddock in the UK, have U-bolts and bushes at a sensible price. Cut your old U-bolts off to save time and use a flap wheel on a drill, to clean the inside of the holes in the chassis before putting the bushes in. I used anti-seize on the bushes so I can get them out again with a puller when I need to.

Don't forget to allow the weight of the car to sit on the wheels when the job is nearly finished, before tightening the nuts and bolts,

Cheers Charlie

Some of my bolts, esp the front hangers, would not budge for love nor money, but they saw the error of their ways when the mighty reciprocating blade came to visit.
I replaced all the bolts as a matter of course when I replaced the bushings. Its a relatively minor expense for such a crucial part

Well its been a few days and sadly not much to report on the bush front, the bolts have decided that they do not wish to give up their nuts even after a long soak in oil. I borrowed a set of stands from a friend, but after getting them home realised that even at full extension they are way short of being any use whatsoever, must have been designed for a toy car or something... and they are apparently a standard size. so looks as though that will have to wait for now, will have a net search see if there's an inexpensive 4x4 set somewhere.

to add another problem to my list of things to do i went to move my nicely repainted fuel tank only to discover that at some point in the past couple of days my delightful little boy has posted several clothes pegs inside, and a hairbrush. none of which want to come out by shaking it upside down and the hole in the top is far too small for me to get my hand in there, and god knows how he managed to get the hairbrush in there it looks far too big to even go through the damn hole. -sigh-

Today i had a minor success however, and have managed to find a bolt to go into the random hole at the bottom of the carb, and all appear to be working as the diagrams say they should so i can most likely get the engine started soon well, as soon as i can connect the fuel tank up. seems as soon as i sort out one problem another arises to slow proceedings once more, might see if i can start her by sticking the fuel pipe in a jerrycan, anyone know if the pump is likely to need priming, and if so how one would go about it as the whole fuel system is drained

I not sure with the Holden engines (is the fuel pump mechanical or electric?), but on the mechanical pump on the 2.25 there's lever to prime the pump which sucks the petrol up from the tank, and then you just turn it over a few times til it fires.

I'd put some petrol in the tank and if theres no visible lever on the pump, assume its self priming and give it a few cranks. It'll either work or it won't.

It's a mechanical pump, I don't see a lever so going to assume to just give it a few cranks see what happens. Going to have to stick some oil in as I don't think it has any, and can check for leaks at the same time... Wish me luck!

I know this sounds dangerous, but tip a small amount of fuel down the carby, then crank the engine, it will probably start and run for a short time, look at the fuel pump to see if it has picked up fuel and if not tip in some more and repeat the process, it will save the battery.
one warning, if it backfires through the carby, flames will shoot out of the carby.
you can choke the engine during this starting process with a hand over the top of the carby.

Well, the good news is that i went to fill it with oil and didn't need to as it appears to be full already, though I will change it eventually at least it means there is no major leakage.
The bad is that she still won't start and run, had her going for about 15 seconds, best 15 seconds I have had in the past year! From what I can tell the pump is not strong enough to get fuel from the tank, I managed to rig it to a funnel and get it primed but then it still couldn't get it from the pump to the carb. I might see about getting a replacement and bypassing this one altogether, might also treat myself to a carb refurb too, not convinced this one is any good.