Thread: Newbie with Series IIA gearbox headache.

Check the selector shafts in the T/case for rust, given the high humidity in the top end and if it has been immersed in H20 it could be rusty and sticking. I had a chap ask me just recently about his overdrive in his S2A 109, he asked how to change the oil in it so I told him, he came back and told me he couldn't find the bits I was talking about, turns out he was told that the overdrive was the GET THIS the Yellow Knob just push it down and you get all this extra GO he was lucky that he didn't blow his transmission with wind up big time

Yeah, the reason I found the loose pinion was the loss of oil out of a buggered seal. Grabbed hold of the uni joint and bugger me, it moved sideways a good 2.5 mil. As for the noise, it is a little bit hard to hear the whine of the diff over the whine of the Firestone SAT's on the bitumen. On dirt there was no way to hear it over the rattles of the body and gravel on the underside.
Regards
Terry [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

The slapping noise was coming from the front prop shaft, I tried locking the hubs, in 4x, no slapping noise, I tried with the hubs unlocked...slapping, and in 2x no noise. So the problem is solved.

The speed does not concern me that much at present just wondered why the difference in performance. I was considering putting in a higher speed transfer case but have read differring reports on them in the British magazines but mostly good so when the funds permit I'll buy one and probably recondition the rear diff at the same time.

Flogged out uni joint or pinion as terry suggested. Big biccies for a reco diff. Suggest do the job yourself, plenty of peeps here to help you. Remember because we have seperate bearings for axles and wheels you can drive the vehicle with the diff out. Just remember to fill the holes with cloth to stop dirt getting in and dont put the axles back until the diff's in. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Yeah you kinda get that way after driving "da wover"... maniacal grin for hours after the experience. Also as you already have found.... nicer to just cruise along. We (hellspawn and me) used to do the gallop (120+ in overdrive) everywhere, now we find it more fun to cruise at 90, getting blown away on the flatter stretches of road and wave when we overtake them on hills when they lose ground.

G'day

I've had a few of these beasts over the years and this is what I would suggest you do.

1. Get some degreaser, get underneath and give everything a bloody good clean. That way, you will be able to see what is going on.

2. Put it on level ground, handbrake off, out of gear and wheels chocked.

3. Get underneath and waggle things. Waggle the propshaft, the universals, rotate the propshafts and see how much play is in the splines and in the diffs. There should be no movement in any of these things except the diff should have a few degrees of play on rotation.

4. Let all the oils out. Now look at the oil. Metal bits? Sparkles in the sun? Black? Look like Salad Dressing? Oil should be clean and topped up. The gearbox will leak a bit from the selector shafts but should not leak from the output seals. If it does, replace the seals. Refill transmission with a Mild Gearbox oil such as Castrol VMX80. Ep 80-90 in the diffs and swivels. And don't forget the poor forgotten steering box and steering relay.

5. Check that the handbrake is not over adjusted. This will cause a clank clank noise.

I suspect you will find that the propshafts are well worn in the splines, and in the universals. They need to be greased quite often - even every 1000km or so if you are off road or even more if you play in mud. The manual says every day!!!

Holden engines (especially the 202) don't like to rev. A Land Rover at 100kph is doing about 5000rpm and your Holden won't last long if you drive it at this speed. You need overdrive if you want to drive more than about 85kph AND you want the engine to last more than about 60,000km.

Make sure too that the spring the pushes the yellow know up is strong enough to do so and that the lever is not bent so it jams in the floor fitting (like mine does!).. When you pull the red lever back (into low range) the yellow know should pop up immediately.

You do not need freewheeling hubs. For years, Rovers were not fitted with them. I lock mine once I hit the dirt and unlock them once I am back in town. These days, I don't bother with them at all.. If you have them, they must be locked a fair bit of the time to make sure the top RAILKO bush in the front swivel housing gets oiled. It relies on the spinning propshaft to throw oil up at it. If you jack up the front wheels and can feel movement in the swivel pins, then this bush is probably worn.

Have fun - in good condition, they are really quite reliable.

Michael
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~mikeleys

5000rpm in 4th at 100 ? must have different diff to mine. 5000 is about 120 in mine and 5000 in O/D is almost off the clock as speedo's 10ks out. Not that you can hear much at that speed ........ 80~90 is a good speed ! 8)

No... I'd say the biggest problem with the holden is too much power for the gearbox... change hard too many times and bang ! It's great if you bumping and banging in the scrub but it's a bugger on soft sand drifts as you bog in pretty quickly if you don't change back to get revs up and certainly don't have time to nurse it through the shift. Same with the black mud about the Downs and West as that stuff clogs up the guards and gradually chokes the wheels putting all the load back on that gearbox. I actually put a 5º twist in my thrid/fourth syncro from too much right welly coming off the beach.... motor didn't even labour.... and that was before I sheared half the teeth of third gear itself... But that's another story.

Thanks all,

Been under it and over it all over the last couple of weeks, most of the problems were caused by the old wear and tear, nothing a bit of grease and a spanner didn't fix.

Covered in grease,oil and grime i come out still with the maniacal grin [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] just playing with my landi.

All the levers work perfectly no sticking, the same noise comes from the front when in 4x4 but that does not affect the running of the vehicle. Diffs are fine as far as I can tell, will be getting hi speed transfer case definately.

Thanks again for the advice, I'll no doubt be on again when the kit arrives.

One thing i have noticed is on the instrument panel there is a two pin plug output, I think it is a military item, any one know what it is?

Rolr 8)