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Thread: New to the series game

  1. #21
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Rubber bits are expensive anywhere! When I painted mine I replaced relatively little of the rubber, and rubber bits were the biggest expense - far more than the paint. I got mine at Clark Rubber, mostly, some from Landrover places.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #22
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    Thanks John, looks like a trip there for me!

    Just confirmed with Vic roads that the engine was last registered in a 66" model holden...so out it comes for me!

    Another interesting note, this car has never been registered in australia. Will this cause me complications at all? Ie. will i need to fit seatbelts etc

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaybra View Post

    Where is the best place to source some seals etc.
    Land rover parts in vic seem quite pricey for some rubber...
    Best to source overseas but..........some items like aftermarket handbrake, hi/low selector & track rod end boots seem to disintegrate after a couple of years even if kept in the dark.

    Land Rover Series 2 & 3 Parts & Accessories | Paddock

    With Paddocks you place the order online and pay for it, they then package it and get back to you with a number of freight options. It's painful if you only want an idea of cost but this is how they do it, you can decline and they put the money back in your account.

    Most of what you buy from Paddocks is the same as you'd get locally, keep the order below $1,000 and you don't (at the moment) attract GST.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
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  4. #24
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    Thanks Colin, I have used Island 4x4 previously for the L322 and they quote postage before you buy so I have been drawn towards them.

    I have come across a new, slightly un-expected issue last night...The advert said that is had all new brake components including "machined drums", yippi i thought! It clearly had the new master cylinders installed and a handful of slave cylinders in boxes still...however, I pulled the front wheel off...

    Ill let you have a second to guess what...

    ...nope you're wrong.

    The front drums are just plain missing!!

    On the phone I i asked the guy who sold it (was for a friend) and they are searching the shed at his ex-wifes house hoping they havent been turffed yet.

    So, my question is...in case of worst result, I dont feel like spitting out $200 for new ones, has any one got any old ****ty ones laying about that I can get repaired?

    The rears are on and in good nik

  5. #25
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    Finally got around to doing something over the weekend and stripped down the engine, order the parts etc.

    So far so good, ish, as my other posts have suggested the cylinder head is cracked. No biggy as it seems, there are plenty of people with them laying about so just a matter of shipping it to vic now.

    The rest of the engine is in superb condition, yay!
    bearings are about 1/2 life and everything seems very clean with little wear. All bearings are 0.010U/S and the pistons are 0.040, I am happy to get away with a cylinder hone without going bigger! the majority of the parts are on the way from rover parts and should be here this week, i will have to get the rest once I have my new head.
    The cam shaft is already back in, so i am excited to get it running!

    I will also need some original colored "buleish" engine paint, does anyone know where I can get this locally (in Aus)?

    Also, I think this is a 7:1 CR head, can anyone confirm from the photos??

    TIA
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  6. #26
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    The head is easy to identify. 8:1 heads are marked by having a raised square boss cast on top of the head, halfway along, on the carburettor side, just outside the rocker cover, stamped with "8". Early 7:1 heads do not have this boss, but later 7:1 heads have the boss, either unmarked or marked with "7". Early 7:1 heads cannot be safely skimmed to increase the compression.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The head is easy to identify. 8:1 heads are marked by having a raised square boss cast on top of the head, halfway along, on the carburettor side, just outside the rocker cover, stamped with "8". Early 7:1 heads do not have this boss, but later 7:1 heads have the boss, either unmarked or marked with "7". Early 7:1 heads cannot be safely skimmed to increase the compression.

    John
    I have come across this before, I dont think there is a boss at all...hence my confusion to find the boss. The numbers I have now confirmed to be the middle brother 7:1 CR

  8. #28
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    Have you sourced a replacement head yet?

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by The ho har's View Post
    Have you sourced a replacement head yet?

    Mrs hh
    I have a few different options atm, just depending on freighting it really is a lovely community on AULRO

  10. #30
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    So the replacement head has arrived from sydney, a massive thanks to Phil B for helping me out there

    The first wave of parts have arrived from roverparts, a small box for how much it all cost thats for sure! Almost everything was there too, just missing the rear main so I had to wait for that.

    Crank, bearings and rear main are now all in. It was much easier to do than I was expecting. I used the feeler gauge method for the T seals and all went well but I wont know for sure until I fire it up.

    This week/weekend will see the rest of the engine assembled (Hopefully). I made a silly mistake of changing one of the small end bearings out because I bought new ones (they didnt need to be replaced at all) and now I have to take it to a machine shop to get pin bored, Ill be leaving the other 3 as they are.

    The new head will get lapped valves, hopefully no regrind is required. but time will tell.

    After the engine is together, the gearbox and transfer will be getting a reseal, then driveshafts will be getting new uni joints, and diffs will be resealed as well.

    One question is, how far gone does the front swivel balls need to be before they are to far gone?
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