2A SWB in the shed

Hi all,

Now I'm legally able to be out and about on real roads I've been on several longer (20K ish) trips, a few trips to the shop...including a few with my appreciative wife, and, generally appreciating the improvements in 50 years of modern automotive technology with a big grin on my face!


A few observations noting I still need to do some tuning...but;

• you don't miss deceleration travelling up hills
• there are actually quiet a lot of bumps in roads
• Cabin noise reduction is great for if you want a conversation but does not provide you with an appreciation of man, machine and the road
• The tyre on the bonnet looks great, but offers poor visibility in a carpark

But on the positive, I'm actually impressed with my ability to keep up with traffic up to 80kph, the warmth from the engine pay acts as an effective heater and the steering is not that bad!

I also need to undertake a overdrive rebuild - there a terrible scream once engaged.

I plan to tackle some offload tracks in the next few weeks to see what low range has to offer.

But - some advice if I may,

My rear differential makes a shocking "marbles rattling" noise decelerating down a hill. I also noticed on a long trip that the rear diff and hubs were very hot when I got home. Enough for me to question if I'd filled up the diff with oil!....I had but I did check:-)

The Diff is also throwing oil front tail shaft seal.

I realise it will need a some maintenance or repair but what is the best approach?

A rebuild, or do I find a reconditioned unit and replace?

Any advice will be appreciated

Col.

The diff I’m unsure about exactly, but if it’s noisy, then it may at the very least need shimming/adjustment, but you could possibly have damaged gears as well,, not overly difficult to pull out and inspect anyway. The hubs being hot would indicate they’re not adjusted quite right, so if you take the weight off the wheel and it wobbles a bit, then they’ll need tightening, but I suspect they’re more likely to be to tight currently and need loosening a tad. Can do this at the same time as pulling the diff.

If you're lucky a secondhand diff centre may resolve some of the noise problem.
Worse case scenario you get the s/h one re-shimmed and do a swap over if the bearings and crownwheel & pinion are OK. I tried a couple of diffs for my SII GS, the best one came from a front axle with freewheel hubs because it had seen little use. Others were rust pitted (gears & bearings) or had a badly worn crownwheel & pinion.

I have a few spare axles and I need to check them out for a decent diff to go in my Series III. It howls on acceleration or deceleration but is quiet on a neutral throttle.

Hot hubs could be bearings too tight as Chops mentioned or brakes dragging slightly.

Colin

Thanks Gromit & Chops,

I will look at the hubs this weekend (time permitting), I suspect over tight bearing is the case and have a look around for a diff. Had a look at a youtube video on diff rebuilds - looks like you need some specialist equipment to do a proper adjustment.

Might even consider taking it to a specialist? decisions decisions.

Thanks as always,

Col.

If getting another diff, be aware that there are differenet ratios. Except for very early Series 1, all Series vehicles are 4.7, except Stage 1 which are 3.58, but you also need to be aware that diffs out of Defenders, Rangerover classic, Discovery 1 and various Rover cars are interchangeable but are not the same ratio, but are sometimes fitted to Series landrovers to get better highway performance, especially with non-standard engines. So it getting one, even if it came out of a Series Landrover, check the ratio by counting teeth. (And do the same with yours - it may not be the original either!

You really do not want different ratio front and rear diffs!