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Thread: 2A SWB in the shed

  1. #1
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    2A SWB in the shed

    Hi all

    After owning a Disco Series II, Disco 3 and now a Disco 4.....decided I needed a project and purchased 1967 2A SWB. My wife tells me it self inflicted pain, but she loves the opportunity to head off free camping and outback touring and "understands".

    I've found this forum extremely helpful in providing info across a whole gamut of topics, so I thought I'd better share this project with the group for those who are interested.

    The vehicle came from the NSW south coast and has been a "paddock basher" for the last 10 years, last registered in 2009.

    The drive train has a serious problem...the owner was towing "about 4 or 5 ton" down a hill in first low range and "she let go!". He pulled all the short axles and they all checked out...I'm expecting it to be the clutch / gear box, have not gotten that deep yet.

    Bought it sight unseen, the motor runs (2 1/4 petrol), no rust in the fire wall and the chassis and leaf springs are covered in surface rust and after having a good tap around, hoping this is as far as it goes. The panels are all original except the LHS Door...was parked under a barn carport and the front looks brown from to long in the sun.

    Intend to strip it bare and restore to a Sunday driver that I can take for a but of a bush bash when the stars align....might be a 5 year project:-)

    Vehicle number: 24309000 B
    Engine Number: 25222589 G

    Did a compression test yesterday, Cylinder 1 @ 85psi, 2,3,4 @ 90psi; reading the manual, they should be up around 145psi...so will probably do an engine rebuild also.

    Just had the Haynes S2A restoration manual delivered so will start the disassembly!

    Cheers

    Col.
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  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    To check where the drive failure is. Jack up one back wheel - if it can be turned with the handbrake on and in gear there is a failure past the handbrake almost certainly a half axle or the rear diff. (if the prop shaft turns then it is a transfer case failure - rare; but make sure the red lever is fully forward.

    Sudden drive failure as is suggested is most likely simply the transfer case has jumped out of gear, but probably most likely after this is a clutch plate broken, although a broken gearbox shaft is also possible.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    Hmm,

    your situation looks very like de ja vu to me....


    Welcome to the Clan! Colin where are you based?
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  4. #4
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    Thanks John...I'll jack it up and have twist of the wheels...hoping its the clutch plate but I'm expecting a few surprises along the way.

    And JayBee...a very familiar look (Car in the driveway that is)....live in the ACT. Your posts have been very helpful and I'll reference it and a few others along the way.

    I've been told this is 1967 vehicle, any way of confirming the actual manufacture date? The Calvin thing only gives me a date range?

    col

  5. #5
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    Noice i so want a s11 shortie

  6. #6
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    Looks lovely and straight for an ex paddock basher, congratulations, look forward to hearing about the rebuild.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    Noice i so want a s11 shortie
    everyone needs a 2a shorty,
    the things are great.
    Safe Travels
    harry

  8. #8
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    A little progress over the new year break.

    All the panels off down to the fire wall and motor...2 hours of high pressure hose and 4 cans of degreaser.

    So many 7/16th bolts! Only 6 of them meet the grinder under the RHS fender (2 hours of trying first!)

    One small rust spot under the accelerator...looks more like it's rusted from wet footwear internally rather than externally.

    The chassis look very sound and a good sand blasting an paint will be all that is required.

    Rear lighting is very different from the books description "undo the single plug to the rear lights"....it was a spaghetti nightmare so cut back to the chassis. Will sort this at a later date.

    Plenty of fun to follow.

    So....to get to the chassis and remove the engine / gear box, do I remove the firewall and all its attachments first?

    Col.
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  9. #9
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen View Post
    .........
    So....to get to the chassis and remove the engine / gear box, do I remove the firewall and all its attachments first?

    Col.
    You can remove the engine/gearbox without removing the firewall, although removing it will make this a little easier.

    All depends on whether you plan on removing the firewall. If you do not need to do this, it may be easier to leave it in place - you need to be aware that some people have spent weeks trying to remove the two big bolts that attach it to the outriggers!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
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    Congratulations. Looks like a fairly easy project A project with little rust in the footwells and firewall should be fairly straight forward

    Mrs hh
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