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Thread: 2A SWB in the shed

  1. #21
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    Thanks guys...definitely a stronger looking unit that I have on there ATM. My wife is worried that Supercheap is beating Bunnings as my favorite weekend haunt....will go and improve their share price again tomorrow.

    col.

  2. #22
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    If you can get access to it, two big hammers works
    Safe Travels
    harry

  3. #23
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    X2

    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    I use one of these that I have tricked up a bit on the grinder to open the jaws a touch so it will fit the arm correctly.
    Pitman Arm Puller available at Supercheap, Ebay, etc.
    Price ranges from about $25 to $40 depending on how soon you want it.


    33mm Heavy Duty Pitman ARM Puller Remover TIE ROD END Automotive Tool 3017 | eBay


    Cheers, Mick.
    Hello from Brisbane.

    I used one of these and after modification they work well - need to widen the jaw gap a little either with a grinder or hacksaw. Put the pressure on then little more than one or two sharp taps with a hammer will usually dislodge the arm without causing damage to the box components.

    Repco sell them fairly cheaply - flash your auto club membership card and get a further 10% off. Or wait for a 20% off everything in stock sale. Same applies to Supercheap and Autobarn.

    Cheers,

    Neil

  4. #24
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    That'll be the problem then

    Earlier I shared that my 2a had a drive issue after being pushed by a 4+ton load. Finally got the motor out on the weekend and was "happy" to find a disintegrated clutch plate. Happy 'cause now I know it's not anything more sinister!

    Pic attached, definitely a bit of a mess...the pressure plate has a rim of clutch debris warn on an around it. Interestingly, the 2cm reaming part on the plate offered no friction as I could push the chassis back and forth in gear without any issue.

    Been luck so far with he dismantle, I've not had any stubborn components...even the bulkhead nuts undid with little persuasion. might be a different story once I get to the suspension parts!

    Col.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #25
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    Suspension removal

    Hi all,

    Down to the suspension...everything was going swimmingly till here!

    Whats the secret to removing the leave spring hanger bolts? the nuts have come away easily but the bolts are stuck fast. Won't turn, wont budge with a hit from a very large hammer.

    Heat, wd40??

    Col

  6. #26
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    The plates are threaded so they screw out.
    However the usual thing is they are seized in the bushes.
    Options are: Angle Grinder, Gas Axe, Hacksaw, Drill.


    They usually throw a challenge to say the least, so good luck.




    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  7. #27
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    As Mick says, the shackle bolts are threaded into the nut side shackle plate. The problem is likely to be that the bolts are seized into the inner tube of the bush, preventing them from turning. If this is the case, not just tight/seized into the inner shackle plate, you should be able to turn it the spring of the rubber.

    Solutions. You can try penetrating oil and heat, and time. The ultimate solution is likely to be a thin cutting disc, just be careful not to damage the spring and the chassis. Alternatively, drill out the ends of the bolts. The remains of the bolts and the bushes are then relatively easy to remove from the spring eyes and chassis.

    Replace shackle bolts and plates as necessary. Note that the presence of grooves in the plate from the inner tube means the plate needs to be reversed or replaced.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #28
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    Threaded...the plates are threaded?! Well...that explains the reason the hammer method wouldn't work, Thanks for the tip gents.

    I decided all the suspension bolts and hangers will be renewed and was working on one side only to get the hang of the effort and method required before moving on.....but was worried my current practice was damaging the chassis fittings also.

    I'll invest in some heat gear...only have a propane torch ATM...might also get a bigger breaker bar...will also give the air chisel a run.

    The other question I have is can the leaf springs be restored? The current springs are rusty, but I don't necessarily think they are past useful life.

    Has anyone resorted these?...dismantled cleaned, oiled and re-assembled? is it worth the effort?

    thanks

    Col.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen View Post
    The other question I have is can the leaf springs be restored? The current springs are rusty, but I don't necessarily think they are past useful life.

    Has anyone resorted these?...dismantled cleaned, oiled and re-assembled? is it worth the effort?
    I have read numerous posts of people doing just that.

  10. #30
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen View Post
    .....
    The other question I have is can the leaf springs be restored? The current springs are rusty, but I don't necessarily think they are past useful life.

    Has anyone resorted these?...dismantled cleaned, oiled and re-assembled? is it worth the effort?

    thanks

    Col.
    Yes, they can be restored unless leaves are broken, very badly pitted, or very badly worn.

    Resetting may be necessary, but probably not in most cases.


    It is well worth restoring the original springs if possible as the thickness spring material used is no longer obtainable, making it very difficult to match the rate and self damping of the originals.

    Late Series 3 springs appear to have used the thicker leaves.


    At this point it is worth keeping in mind that all Series springs are handed - left and right have different static camber. So don't get the springs or individual leaves mixed up.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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