Thread: 2A SWB in the shed

thanks Mick and co...had another go last night now I know there are threads in the hanger brackets. with the aid of pipe extension, managed to bend a spanner but got 5 of the rear bolts to turn...so once I can work in the day (and not make a noise) I'll be able to remove the rear springs and axle.

Really need to get myself a good breaker bar...this weekends mission.

I'm removing the leafs with the axles attached...hoping to be able to turn over to remove one off the chassis...that the best way to go?

Am soaking the front suspension bolts and also struggling with the steering box...thinking that might stay in place as the steering did not seem to have to much play.

cheers

col.

Hi all,

Been a lot of work over the past few months and I thought I'd provide an update and a seek a bit of guidance from the collective knowledge!!

Not much to see ATM...'cause Lana is all in bits. chassis, axles, springs all removed. The advice to attack the spring bushes myself was invaluable! I've essentially started the restoration and working in reverse of the dismantle.

Leaf Springs...decided from advice here that renovating the existing springs is the way to go....about 3 hours per spring...I've done 2 so far. (Before and after attached). I was investigating an Oxy torch (the Red Devil one form Super cheap) to heat steel and remove the bushes but have started using MAPP gas...great heat and gets the metal glowing hot in no time.



A couple of issues. the "iron clamp" holds are either completely missing or only half there in most instances. I'll research blacksmith skills to replace the missing ones. The work was laborious but essentially grind with an angle grinder cup wire steel fitting, spray with rust kill and finished with some INOX. Very happy with the renovated springs.

The biggest issue I have is I can't see any way of replacing the leaf U-bolt clamp. There are none in place on the current springs, and I can't see how they will ever fit. (Pic included)


Q1 - do the leaf spring u-bolt bolts need to be replaced and how do are they going to fit. I'm making an assumption they are needed?

I've started the axle renovation. Completely dismantled the rear axle. The stub axles and bearings are all in good condition...although l probably replace all the bearings. Removed the differential and there is no play or damage...so I'll leave it alone and after a clean, re-install as is.

The next task is painting the axles. some advice if possible, I've de-greased, high pressure washed and rust killed;

Q: what the best painting process? etch primer and top coat?...whats the best paint brands? It will be black but want something that will last for years.

And lastly...am planning to have the chassis sand blasted but...the steering relay seems to be the only part that has become one with the chassis. Removed all the bolts and base plate but it will not budge. sprayed it, sweet talked nicely and hit it pretty hard....any secrets? It's fairly stiff to move but I cannot feel any play in it. Do I leave it in place and simply protect it during the sand blast? Do I use heat?

Painting the Chassis...I'm expecting the chassis to be returned etch primed...again, whats the best paint to finish it off? The same as the axles?

My plan is to get the rolling gear and chassis back to working order and then start on the engine and gear box. Having not actually driven Lana, I'm not sure if the gear box is in good order...I'll investigate a rebuild while its out:-)

I've visited the local engine rebuild business and they are happy for me to give them the engine in bits to determine what oversize bearings and ring that may be needed. The offered to do the rebuild and were surprised when I replied that the rebuild is the fun part I want to enjoy!!

I was also fortunate to pick up a set of Whitworth spanners and sockets from next door...my neighbor was a Mustang and Citron reno enthusiast but unfortunately passed away mid last year. His wife wants to clear the garage. A sad situation.

Suspect I'm 1/8th the way through the reno...suspect I'll have a nice running vehicle sometime in 2019:-)

Cheers

Col.
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Hmmm...seem to be a limit the the number of pics per post...some more included for your viewing pleasure:-)

Col.

The steering relay will be stuck by rust and dust in between the relay and the tube through the chassis.

One approach you might consider, that I have not tried, is to get the chassis upside down or on edge, and using a hacksaw blade or similar try to scratch out as much of the rust and dust as possible. Then put it back upright. From there, seal the bottom gap, possibly with blutack, then try filling the gap with molasses solution for a few days. With any sort of luck, this will free it enough to remove with a jack and a frame of heavy steel to hold the jack.

John

Thanks John,

I'll give this a go...expect it will be a long process, using a press will be a better option than a persuader!

ta

col.

That thick leaf was probably added by the previous owner. I'm pretty sure it's not original.
.W.

Thanks .W....had a count last night and there are 10 leafs in the front spring and 12 in the back. Yes, there is a significantly thicker leaf included in the front.

Why is this so? does this need to be in the leaf? or is 9 enough? I'd expect the additional leaf would make it a very firm ride?

still leaves me with the problem...do you need to have the bolt spring shackle in place on the spring or is it simple holding the spring in place?

Col.

Most L/R springs have got a stamped part number at one end. From that part number it's usually possible to find out the specifications for that spring.There are dozens of different springs.
I can't comment on those spring clamps , as I've never driven a L/R without them. Sorry.
.W.