Thread: 2A SWB in the shed

Hi all,

Thanks for the input. managed to buy a piece of 3" exhaust with 1.6mm walls. cut it down and re-welded to suit the 2 3/4" diameter of the steering relay. Fitted and welded back into the chassis, very happy with the result.

Still working on the relay, it received some serious abuse trying to get it out and currently turns but very very stiff. I'll dismantle it and see if it is recoverable as suggested by many.

I've now dismantled the rear leaf springs which were in a far worse rust condition than the front springs. Unfortunately one of the leaves is broken! Rear left number 2 leaf and all very pitted.

So now have the dilemma....can I buy a single leaf from somewhere or do I shell out and buy new ones. Been quoted over $440 each!

Any suggestions from the collective as to where to source Rear leaf springs for a 66 88" SIIA?

Col.

Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen

Still working on the relay, it received some serious abuse trying to get it out and currently turns but very very stiff. I'll dismantle it and see if it is recoverable as suggested by many.

The load is taken by the thick brass (?) thrust washers if you press it out by the shaft.
The stiffness is possibly due to lack of oil & rust in the section that runs in the Tufnol tapered bushes.
All the parts are available (thrust washers, steel washers, spring, Tufnol bushes, gaskets & seals) you just need to determine whether the shaft is salvageable.

Remove both endcaps & thrust washers, wrap one end in some rag and drive the shaft out into the rag using a soft mallet. The spring means parts will tend to 'fly' hence wrapping it with rag.....
Once apart you can decide whether to rebuild.


Colin

I found the steering relay in the series 3 I'm building very stiff and I assumed it would need rebuilding, however I filled it with oil slowly over a couple of weeks - only a small dribble could be put in it at a time - and kept working it backwards and forwards. To my surprise it came good and is now within spec and smooth to operate. I need to replace the seal as a lot of the oil has since fallen out again, but as the bushes are self adjusting with the (very strong) spring that's in there, you may find you can salvage it without too much work.

Worth a try anyway before pulling it apart.

Springs are available new in either standard or parabolics but are expensive - the price you've been quoted seems a bit steep, but not too far off the mark - a full set front and rear was around $1,200 for mine. (just bought a new set of parabolics for the S3) but if you are after second hand ones, there's a few people about wrecking them - the Ho Hars here break series vehicles up and would probably have a decent second hand set for sale.

Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen

Hi all,

Thanks for the input. managed to buy a piece of 3" exhaust with 1.6mm walls. cut it down and re-welded to suit the 2 3/4" diameter of the steering relay. Fitted and welded back into the chassis, very happy with the result.

Still working on the relay, it received some serious abuse trying to get it out and currently turns but very very stiff. I'll dismantle it and see if it is recoverable as suggested by many.

I've now dismantled the rear leaf springs which were in a far worse rust condition than the front springs. Unfortunately one of the leaves is broken! Rear left number 2 leaf and all very pitted.

So now have the dilemma....can I buy a single leaf from somewhere or do I shell out and buy new ones. Been quoted over $440 each!

Any suggestions from the collective as to where to source Rear leaf springs for a 66 88" SIIA?

Col.

for the rear springs, try Ho Hars on this site, they should be able to help you.

Have been a bit remiss lately.... had a very nice month holiday O/S and getting back into the project.

My last update I was looking for new springs and steering relay. The Ho Hars have been more than helpful and I now own 2 new (well as good as new) rear springs and a new (see previous) steering relay.

The chassis and bulkhead have both been off to the media blaster and very happy with the results.

I've reconditioned the steering relay with new collars and oil seals and it works a treat...might be a bit stiff but smooth and stiff, expect this will loosen up over time.

Put a coat of Rust Seal over the chassis and after looking around at paint types have decided on the Valspar 2 pack range for the top coat. Incredibly hard stuff, harder than powder coat and more flexible. Not sure if I'll do the panels with this but looks good in black gloss ATM!

The bulkhead didn't quiet make the grade after the media blast. I'm currently looking replace the foot wells and will have a conversation with HoHars again this weekend.

I've also received a box with a complete break overhaul (ex the brake pipes) , steering knuckles and some shock absorbers...so I'm ready to assemble all the running gear.

I'll tackle the bulkhead next and then start on the engine and gearbox.

The 5 year project might only be two and a half??

Cheers

Col.
.

Col,

May I ask how much it cost to media blast the chassis and where you got it done? I'm at that point myself and wondering if I should go that way or just sand the bits I can reach with a flap disc and paint...

PM me if you would prefer.

Thanks,
Peter.

Hi Peter,

I'm in ACT and used a local Media Blaster who had renovated a Series II himself (When I turned up he picked the chassis to the year!!).

I had the bulkhead and chassis done for $400.....so $200 each?The job was done T&M. Definitely worth the investment for the completeness of the job, ease and finish of the subsequent paint job.

Interestingly, as a media blaster with free access to all the tools, he advised that the alloy panels were best done with paint stripper. I'll take his advice on that one.

col.

Thanks Col,
That sounds pretty reasonable, I think I'll investigate it further...
For some reason I thought you were in Brisbane.

Peter.