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Thread: 2A SWB in the shed

  1. #61
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Unless you are doing a lot of freeway driving, an additive is unnecessary. I have been running without ever since leaded disappeared, no signs of valve seat recession (tappets checked every service, and I've had the head off to decoke and check).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #62
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    On my MGBGT I fitted a Moreys upper cylinder injections syatem , run it for 8 years untill I sold the car with out any problems. It injecte the correct amount of unleaded additive into the manifold so you dont have to worry about putting it in the tank.
    U

  3. #63
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    This is the system I used. Photo didn't work . I will try a nether way
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #64
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    See if this works. It turned it back on its side . Don't know what is going on , some photo's I upload keep rotating back even when I rotate them the correct way up.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen View Post
    ...
    Valve reseating ? is it necessary to run on unleaded fuel these days not use an additive?
    Cam shaft bearings ? I can see 4 in the cam tunnel ? how hard is it to extract and refit?.looks like I may need some specialist tools?
    Water pump ? is the water pump supposed to spin very freely? I suspect so. I can't seem to see any overhaul kits?.any suggestions?

    ...
    Cheers

    Col.
    Land Rover seats are very hard and designed for poor-quality fuel; you will not need to worry about wasting money on additives, even if you do sustained high speed running. LPG makes life hard for the valves, so ask the re-conditioner if you plan to use LPG.

    The re-conditioner will have an extractor to pull the camshaft bearings out; I suspect it will be cheaper than making a tool to do it.

    The water pump should turn easily by hand with the drag of the seal noticeable; it won't "spin freely" but there should be no roughness. Check for water stains on the weep-hole underneath the pump; if there are any it is cheaper to replace the pump usually.

    Cheers Charlie

  6. #66
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    Thanks Charlie & 1950Landy and co.

    Looks like a new pump, I did find complete units and a bearing replacement (Was looking under engine parts, not cooling!) so I'll see which ones the best outcome.

    Intersting to hear re the valve seats. Once I get it to the reconditioner I'll take his advice also. Compression was down on all cylinders thich may only be all the rings,

    Cheers

    Col.

  7. #67
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    [QUOTE=Colin Pedersen;2626912]


    Water pump ? is the water pump supposed to spin very freely? I suspect so. I can't seem to see any overhaul kits?.any suggestions?




    Kits available here. (local)
    Land Rover Parts - WATER PUMP KIT - L/ROVER 2.25 PET+DSL (7, 8 & 9 STUD)
    Shaft only here.
    Land Rover Parts - WATER PUMP BEARING - L/ROVER 2.25+2.6 PETROL & 2.24 DIESEL
    Complete water pump here.
    Land Rover Parts - WATER PUMP - L/ROVER 2.25 PETROL+DIESEL S2A+3 (9 STUD)


    Or overseas here.
    Complete pump.
    STC3758 | Water pump - S11A/111 - 9 stud - Paddock Spares
    Kit.
    RTC3072 | Water pump repair kit - 8/9 stud - Paddock Spares


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  8. #68
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    Thanks Mick....interesting to see all the purchse options. Will pull the pump apart this weekend to see if I jsut need the bearing or the whole pump.

    ta
    col.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen View Post
    Thanks Mick....interesting to see all the purchse options. Will pull the pump apart this weekend to see if I jsut need the bearing or the whole pump.

    ta
    col.

    I put a kit through one a while back.
    The replacement shaft in the kit is a larger diameter than the original,
    from memory, I think 5/8" now, where old was 1/2" or 9/16"



    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  10. #70
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    Hi all,

    Been a little while but some good progress every week.

    Had the engine off to the recondition shop to do all the engineering - new .20 pistons and rings, re-bore, .30 bearings, valves, valve slides, pressure test, welsh plugs and a good clean out....there was a lot of rust in the block!! Currently assembling the block after a paint.

    I spoke at length with my paint supplier re the best engine paint...this guy has been in the game for 30+ years....and he sent me off to Repco to buy the engine enamel off the shelf!! In his experience, even his best 2 pack will start to discolour after 6 months. So not quiet the duck egg blue but I'm happy with the finish.

    I’ve purchased a new water pump, tappet lifters and drive chain...so all in all...should be a nice little runner one day.

    I've also spent a lot of time renovating all the little bits and pieces.....hand brake, manual throttle, accelerator linkages etc.....all on a shelf ready for re-assembly one day soon.

    The next job is painting the panels, doors and tub.

    a paint question - I took a panel with the galvanised trim to my paint man and asked him his opinion of the best process to A: paint around the galvanised trim and B: renovate the galvanised trim.

    His suggestion is to remove all the trim - paint the panels properly and re-galvanise the trim

    any suggestions?....how hard is it to remove and replace the trim...I can see I can buy the special rivets online...but is this the best approach?

    Col.
    head.jpgBlock.jpgBlock paint.jpg

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