Thread: 2A SWB in the shed

Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen

I also bought some KBS Rust Seal today to use as the axle and chassis paint...not cheap but I think it will be better than the Bunnings spray can option. I'll let you know how it looks. They recommend a top coat of their Blacktop to UV stabilize the paint...@$76 a litre, I'll see how the budget goes!

I've heard of people having problems with POR-15 & also the KBS version.
Sometimes it's difficult to get another paint to stick to it but if you don't top coat it the finish dulls. Hopefully their topcoat solves the problem.
Also these finishes are designed to be painted over the rust but everyone removes the rust first ?

Remember Bunning don't make the paint it comes from Dulux/White Knight etc. They also sell paint you can brush on although I find stippling (stabbing) it on with a reasonable quality bristle brush gives a finish without brush marks.

Painted axle parts, hubs etc. on my Series I with a combination of the spray & brush versions back in 2007 and no issues so far.
Still using it now




Colin

Thanks Gromit,

I'll give the KBS paint a go and see what the coverage and finish is like.

What paint brand finish did you use in the end for the Series one pictured?

Col.

Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen

Thanks Gromit,

I'll give the KBS paint a go and see what the coverage and finish is like.

What paint brand finish did you use in the end for the Series one pictured?

Col.

The picture is of the Series IIa Dormobile I'm working on, it was a Dulux paint (I'll have to check what it was called) in rattle cans & a 1 litre tin.
I used a 'brake caliper' paint on the brake backplate & drum because I found it resists brake fluid. Most other paints I found wrinkled & lifted if brake fluid was left on it after bleeding. It comes up on special at SuperExpensive and the black isn't that popular with the boy racers so usually plenty in stock.


Colin

Hi All

Been a while and thought I'd provide an update of progress.

Had a real issue and weeks (about 6!) of effort to try and remove the steering relay. Soaked it, soaked it some more, heated it, welded up a brace to make a press....the thing just did not budge!

I know!... I've got access to a 10,000kg hydraulic ram:-) Made some horrible noises but the relay eventually came out whilst ripping the internal chassis collar with it. Had to be done in the end.

It seems the rats and mice where the vehicle stood in a shed for many years chose to nest in and around the front chassis area. The whole unit was rusted solid form years of rat pee. Even inside the chassis void there were dried up droppings. I'm not even going to try and restore this unit....in the market for a new steering relay!! Also need to figure out how to repair and install a new collar...getting a cylinder the right size may be a problem.

In the quiet times between cursing the relay, I've been renovating the front and rear axles. All completed this weekend, new seals, gaskets and the bearings all greased up. just need to buy a break kit as all the hoses, servos and pads need renewing.

Has anyone had any issues milling the brake drums? They all seem to be in good nick, just need a new surface?

So, moving on to the chassis being blasted and still renovating the springs?..not sure if I'll be able to save the rears, next weekend's project

Cheers
Col.

Oh, and Gromit,

Meant to say, very happy with the KBS paint'sticks like the proverbial and goes on very easily. Once dry, tough as nails. I started using a Bunnings gloss black rust paint to touch up the nuts and bolts once in place and have used this go over the KBS with the theory this will provide the UV protection?

Will experiment with a practice piece and see how it fairs in the sun once we start to get some in the ACT!

Col.

Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen

I'm not even going to try and restore this unit....in the market for a new steering relay!! Also need to figure out how to repair and install a new collar...getting a cylinder the right size may be a problem.

Be careful of the aftermarket relays, some have had the shafts twist. May be better to rebuild a genuine rather that take pot luck with a pattern one.
Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

If you go back a few posts in the above thread you'll see the tool I made for getting the relay back together.

Regarding the chassis problem.
Maybe find someone with a scrap chassis & cut out the front crossmember.


Colin

You could try a truck exhaust place to get some tube the right size. I did just that when i put two 4" pieces of exhaust tubing in 2 of my rear chassis x members to put the exhaust thru military chassis style. Plenty strong enough and the wall thickness was also good. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

Very good idea thanks Rod......I'll do exactly that once I have a new relay to fit.

ta

col.