2A SWB in the shed

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

You can remove the engine/gearbox without removing the firewall, although removing it will make this a little easier.

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It definitely makes getting the engine and gearbox out.

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All depends on whether you plan on removing the firewall. If you do not need to do this, it may be easier to leave it in place - you need to be aware that some people have spent weeks trying to remove the two big bolts that attach it to the outriggers!

John

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You're not thinking of me are you? :angel:

If you want the gory details, have a look in Wombat's thread. Mind you, I also give some thoughts on how to get them out.

Definitely got to do up the firewall so will remove it first...thanks for the direction to Wombats thread....will look at that now and get out the penetrating lube!.

ta

Col.

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Originally Posted by Colin Pedersen

Hi all
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Vehicle number: 24309000 B
Engine Number: 25222589 G

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Cheers

Col.

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Hi Colin

Sorry for not getting around to this earlier, I don't have a record of your vehicle so it obviously went to a state other than NSW. Yours is likely part of PMC batch 160, I have the records of batch 162 with chassis numbers commencing at 24309009B, within that batch is engine number 25222588G (chassis 24309013B ) so your engine is likely the original one fitted at the factory.

Unfortunately your vehicle is not 1967 as suggested by the previous owner but a 1965 build, most probably October 1965. You should find date stamps on some of the equipment, like the wiper motors or starter motor and even the carby or windscreens.

You can confirm the date range by the suffix

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Originally Posted by CliftonCalVIN

B
Design: One significant design modification

Suffix used from March 1963 till April 1966

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Diana,
any idea on the build date of this 2A?
It too is suffix B March 1963 to April 1966.

24306109B
Unfortunately I don't have the original motor for it.

Cheers, Mick.

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Originally Posted by mick88

Diana,
any idea on the build date of this 2A?
It too is suffix B March 1963 to April 1966.

24306109B
Unfortunately I don't have the original motor for it.

Cheers, Mick.

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Hi Mick
#24306109B would have been part of batch 146 another vehicle not originally sold in NSW. It was most likely built in May 1964 and would have had an F suffix engine in the 25169??? region.

Batch 147 were all truck cabs and the lowest engine was #201F and the highest #856F

NB: A "batch" is the assembly of a complete CKD set of 6 vehicles. CKD sets were dispatched from the UK in groups of 6 vehicles, packed into crates, excluding the parts like wheels, tyres, batteries and other locally sourced parts. A crate would have contained 6 engines, or 6 gearboxes etc.

Thank you Diana for that information.
Given that the vehicles were in a batch, were the engines assigned to a particular vehicle/chassis number before dispatch, or were they just randomly picked for assembly after arrival here, and then the completed vehicles stamped with all the relevant numbers?

Cheers, Mick.

Hi Mick

It seems the engines were randomly picked. Going by the engine serials used in consecutive vehicles, there should be no reason why there are often hundreds of numbers between engines in adjacent vehicles.

My guestimate is that the engines were unpacked and stored at random, then picked up in another random manner and used.

Thanks Lot-z-alandies, and Mick, really appreciate that. I was beginning to think it was a bit older...I was rattling around the US page and found the SN sequence that was indicating an earlier date....brings the age closer to mine!!. There is a "Regency" sales sticker on the back...I'm thinking it may have originally been sold in Victoria and migrated up the coast over the years.

The disassemble is continuing slowly between a few weekends away and some other home reno jobs...managed to pick up a second hand engine hoist over the weekend which will make things easier, off to get an engine stand this weekend.

a couple of questions...

Down to removing the steering wheel and top steering box off the bulkhead. any hints in getting the drop arm off? Have a light weight puller cranked on it ATM (can't get a bigger one in there) and given it a few good whacks with a hammer and cole chisel....any harder and I think I break something.

Can you remove the first tie rod and manipulate the steering wheel out with the drop arm attached?? Might be easier to get at the drop arm once removed?

col.

I use one of these that I have tricked up a bit on the grinder to open the jaws a touch so it will fit the arm correctly.
Pitman Arm Puller available at Supercheap, Ebay, etc.
Price ranges from about $25 to $40 depending on how soon you want it.


33mm Heavy Duty Pitman ARM Puller Remover TIE ROD END Automotive Tool 3017 | eBay


Cheers, Mick.

I do the same as Mick & use a cheap Pitman arm puller, it has to be machined/ground to the correct opening but does the job.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powe...ml#post2010788

The last one I tightened up as hard as I dared, hit it a few times with no luck so left it on overnight. It was under the car in morning.......



Colin