Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Difference Between Series 2A and Series III Starter Motors?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    4,125
    Total Downloaded
    12.97 MB

    Difference Between Series 2A and Series III Starter Motors?

    Hello All,

    I noticed a difference between three starter motors that I have: one is off a 2A, another is off a Series III, the third was given to me and is either a Series 2 or a 2A. Each of the three are different from each other.

    The definite 2A has an woven wire earth strap that bridges across two poles at the back of the starter motor. The strap travels under the starter motor and is clamped by the two bolts that hold the body of the starter solenoid. There is single post that has a shorter woven earth strap that goes to the earth side of the starter solenoid.

    I have a Series 2A motor that is on a stand in my shed and the engine runs. So I know the starter motor works - it is a known quantity.

    I have a Series III starter motor which I took off one of my parts vehicles that was saved from the scrappy's - it was not running when I bought it.

    I want to be able to test this starter motor in my engine sitting in the shed to see if the Series III starter motor works.

    Because the motor is in a wooden frame the previous owner bolted the starter solenoid onto the front bracket of the motor. The starter solenoid is not fixed to the battery box like normally fitted to an engine in a vehicle.

    I noticed that the configuration of the Series III starter motor is different to the Series 2A starter. The Series III has only one post on the back plate of the starter motor. Then there is a short round wire with an eyelet that is placed under the bottom bolt - one of two that holds the starter motor to the engine. The other end of the wire is fixed under a bolt secured to the cross member of the chassis quite close to the end of the clutch slave cylinder.

    In my Series III the wire at the single post/terminal at the back of the starter motor goes under the starter motor travels across the motor and the connects to the starter solenoid terminal - fixed to the battery box.

    Did they just eliminate the side post in the Series III version and replace it with a two ended short length of multi strand automotive round wire that is fixed between the bottom starter motor mounting bolt and the chassis cross member?

    Circuit wise in the Series III is the most important connection the one that goes from the single post at the back of the starter motor to the post of the starter solenoid?

    Should I then make up another wire with two eyelets: one end secured by one of the starter motor mounting bolts and fix the other end under a bolt in the main engine body because there is no chassis to connect this end of it to?

    Photograph 1 shows the back of the Series 2A starter motor with the flat earth strap that is held between two posts.
    Photograph 2 with the purple arrows shows the connecting earth flat strap between the side post of the starter motor and its connect to the post on the starter motor.
    Photograph 3 shows the Series III on the left and the possible Series II (A?) on the right.
    The last photograph with the red arrow shows the positioning of the starter solenoid and where the earth strap from the back two poles of the the 2A starter motor ends pinched between the engine and the frame of the starter solenoid held by two bolts.

    The engine has an electronic ignition system and I do not want to cause any short circuits or have any sparks flying from the wrong places!

    I would appreciate your thoughts - thank you.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    4,125
    Total Downloaded
    12.97 MB
    Hello All,

    By the way the engines I refer to are six cylinder 2.6 litre Land Rover.

    The main purpose for testing the Series III starter motor is because Batty's starter motor is suspect. Regardless of how fully charged the battery is there never seems to be enough power to turn the starter motor over. It does turn however it is as if the battery is really low on charge - which I know it is not.

    Today when I was under Batty tracing where the Series III wires go on the starter motor I noticed one earth wire was loose. It is the short earth wire that goes from under the bottom starter mounting bolt and the other end connects under a bolt fixed into the side of the engine.

    Could this loose wire be the cause of the poor performance of the starter motor? Or are more things amiss with it?

    Is it possible to undo the top mounting bolt and nut off the starter motor without having to take the floor panel off?

    I tried to hold the nut with a spanner or a socket from underneath the vehicle - however, it did not work. When I went to another vehicle; the one from the Scrappy's it already had the passenger floor panel off and access to the top nut on the starter motor was no problem at all.

    If other people with the 2.6 litre six cylinder motor can undo the starter motor top bolt without having to take the floor panel off - then I will persist with my efforts from underneath.

    I really do not want to have to take Batty's floor panel off to gain access from the top of the starter motor if I can help it.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    From a perusal of the parts books, it seems that the two types are probably not strictly S2a and S3 - S3 had two types of starter, one of which looks the same as the S2a one although the numbers are different (may mean only slight changes). The two S3 types are interchangeable, with the one that looks like the S2a one being listed 'NLS' - use the other one.

    Hope this helps,

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
    Timj is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,Qld.
    Posts
    1,194
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Lionel,

    You don't actually need the starter solenoid to test a starter motor. Or to have it attached to the engine. You should be able to just use a set of jumper leads to the terminals and you will soon tell if it spins fast enough to throw the gear out far enough to meet the flywheel. If you test two of them side by side it is pretty easy to hear which one spins faster too.

    TimJ.
    Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
    Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
    Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
    Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    4,125
    Total Downloaded
    12.97 MB
    Hello John and TimJ,

    Thanks for looking in the parts book for me John. Thanks for the tip with the jumper leads Tim. I have used a similar technique before on starter motors.

    The starter motor in Batty has to come out anyway. Plus I have not run the motor in the frame since late last year. So it had some chance to yell a full throat today. It does not have any mufflers fitted,just the exhaust manifold. Earmuffs are a must. Of course this is the same side as the previous owners put the panel with the ignition switch and the warning lights. Having flame occasionally come out of the outlet of the manifold just near one's left ear is a delight.

    I was able to test the two starter motors that were in the photograph in the first message. They both work - one better than the other.


    I then tried to get the top bolt and nut off Batty from underneath the vehicle. I tried to undo the nut that holds the earth wire to back end of the Series III starter motor. The nut was just a corroded mess and no spanners would fit it. I decided to give up working from underneath.

    I took off the panel that covers the gear sticks and the front vertical panel on the firewall. I was able to undo the top starter motor nut. However, the spring washer was corroded on to the bolt and would not let the bolt budge. I had to put the nut back on, lay a cold chisel on top of the nut and flog it with a ball pein hammer until it came loose. Then I had to under the engine and wiggle the starter motor until it came loose as well.

    I reverted to a small set of vice grips on the starter motor terminal and I found out that the whole terminal is moving. I will have to try and get a spanner to hopefully fit the body-side of the starter motor and put the vice grips on the end nut to try and get the starter motor out.

    Murphy had to come and visit me I suppose!

    If that does not work I will undo the two bolts that hold the cable bracket and the pivot rod for the hand operated throttle control and undo the wire from the starter solenoid and feed the whole wire through until I can pull the starter motor out and have it clear of the vehicle. Hmmm this might be the best thing to do anyway! At least I will not have to lay on my back getting covered in crap!

    Tomorrow is another day. Cross fingers I will be able to undo the terminal nut and put the tested starter motor on and fire Batty up and go for a drive in the paddock.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Molesworth,Tasmania
    Posts
    2,397
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Lionel , when you get the thing off clean the brushes and the Commutator, put some graphite dust on the shaft, a little bit of oil at the end bearing clean all the contacts and tighten everything back up, new Solenoid if needs be and you'll be off. Mine (s3) was condemned by an auto electrician but I brought it back to life and its fine.
    cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    4,125
    Total Downloaded
    12.97 MB

    Batty Lives!!!

    Hello All,

    Well it is 2:00pm and I started work on Batty's starter motor at 10:00 am and I have not stopped for a break until now. Oh I just had a paddock bash and engaged 4WD and traversed my intermittent creek 3 or 4 times.

    I did start underneath to see if I could use a combination of small vice grips and an open-ended spanner to undo the terminal at the back of the starter motor - no dice. So I unfastened everything wire wise from the starter solenoid via 4 bolted cable clamps.

    I took the starter motor to the shed and held the base in a vice. Used the vice grips and finally got a spanner to fit. Then the terminal post twisted itself off. Lucky I have spare starter motors!

    I thought the next bit would be easiest. What could go wrong with putting two starter motor mounting bolts in?

    The bottom bolt came out with a type of build-up along the threads. I wire brushed this off and used some Copperslip. No matter how I positioned the starter motor the thread would not start on the bolt. I took the starter motor off and the bolt did engage with the thread and went into the housing to its full depth. So I tried it again and the same thing as Take One happened the thread would not engage. The stuff around the bolt threads when I first took it out must have been the product of a steel bolt going into an alloy housing. The first couple of threads must have welded themselves to the bolt. With the bolt only being short it did not have enough play to be able to get past the missing threads in the housing.

    I went scavenging amongst my parts and found that the bolts that hold the gear stick base to the gearbox have the same bolt size and the same thread. Trouble is the bolt is way too long. I checked it to see if it would get past the first manky threads and it wound in happily. I found one of my el-cheapo Chinese incomplete sockets and drilled a hole through it. I ground it down to be a little bit shorter. In the name of international co-operation it sacrificed itself!

    I crawled back under Batty threaded the earth strap eyelet through the bolt and turned it. After a little play the thread grabbed and the bolt kept going in until it was nice and tight!. I threw some fuel into Batty and after the starter motor whirled happily away Batty started!!!!

    After I remembered where reverse was I proceeded stately around my paddock and then thought i had better go back and clean the windscreen - visibility was not the best!

    After some scrubbing with soapy water and windscreen cleaner Batty started first go and we had a paddock bash. I found out that Batty was not in four wheel drive when I tried to crawl out of the creek bank over the mound. I selected four wheel drive and Batty crawled out happily. Just to prove it was not a fluke I did it three more times. I must fix the brakes though

    The big bonus is that the spare keys - or my set of keys to my wife, Leeann's car has been missing since April last year. When I lifted the driver's seat up in Batty I saw these set of keys staring up at me! Last year I had problems with starting Batty so I decided to concentrate my efforts working on Rebus, my Series III with a Holden engine.

    Batty is rather smoky so it either needs an engine rebuild or I will swap over the engine in the stand that is currently my test motor. Still even with Batty in his current smoky state he is still good enough to drive around the paddock. Once I fix the brakes I can use Batty to tow the trailer and shift stuff around the house yard and the paddock.

    Now that I can start Batty whenever I want to again I shall arrange a compression test to work out how major the smoking issue is.

    It is good to be able to drive one of my Land Rovers again

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!