Mick couldn't find stamping but measuring suggests drums are 10"
As far as history I don't know anything except I bought it in Lakes Entrance
I don't think it spent all of its life there because the atmosphere is very salty and generally the rust although there isn't to bad......time and deconstruction may prove me wrong on this
Chassis number is 24311135c which Calvin tells me is CKD between April 66 and April 67
Engine number is 25170387F
don't know if this is original or not
Cheers Paul
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
The Landrover diesels with assisted brakes got their vacuum by having a throttle valve in the intake that closed at small throttle openings, but was full open otherwise.
The cannister, actually made from tow "half egg" shaped pressings welded together, and about the size of the one you have, stored vacuum so that you would have some assistance for an initial pedal operation after taking your foot off the accelerator - particularly if the engine was travelling fast, there would be plenty of vacuum very soon, but you don't really want braking "soon", you want it now.
This mechanism depended for satisfactory operation on having the throttle linkage properly adjusted. Shutting too soon or not fully opening would restrict power and emit smoke - not shutting soon enough or completely enough, not much vacuum and hence heavy brakes.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Some more pictures of air tank couldn't find any markings or part numbers.
From what you guys are saying it seems a good addition to the braking system so I will refurbish it and paint the inside the tank.
Cheers Paul
Filled cracks in hard plastic vent control knobs and painted them, I'm thinking I may use this technique on the steering wheel as well
Also got first coat on bonnet need to source the 4 rubber pads for spare tire
Cheers Paul
It won't hurt, but for petrol engined vehicles where the vacuum is taken from the manifold, it is not a great advantage - there is always some vacuum provided the engine is running, even at fuill throttle - and really, how often do you use full throttle? (I know, in a Seiries, going up any sort of a hill - but then the vacuum gets a boost when you take your foot of momentarily changing gears.)
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Nothing much happened to 2a today except wet sanding first coat on bonnet.
Found an absolute honey hole coup that hadn't been burnt of fire wood so spent the day cutting, splitting and stacking when I got home
plus Wednesday evening is happy hour at our local.....hic![]()
second coat on the top of bonnet turned out a bit ordinary not sure why so will sand it back and try again.
It seemed to craze in spots I didn't sand may be 24hrs isn't enough time between coats its been fairly humid here
Should I be trying to shoot just one coat over etch and leave it at that?
Cheers Paul
Last edited by bemm52; 10th November 2016 at 05:30 PM. Reason: more info
are you using an undercoat/primer after the etch primer
No paint place said it wasn't necessary
Cheers Paul
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