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Thread: Bought a series2... I think.

  1. #51
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    I re use them if they are half decent. None of mine have ever come off easily so i think having put the effort in to get them off rather than grind them off - i may as well re use them.
    Cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Stainless steel in contact with aluminium alloy is asking for trouble. It should be insulated from the alloy. A visit to a marine chandler will supply nylon washers and tubes for the purpose. Also note that there are a few bolts that are heavily enough loaded that stainless may not be strong enough.

    John
    Good advice. What would be the best material for the nuts and bolts to use?

  3. #53
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The original bolts were Sherardised, and this is probably the best to use - but not easy to find. I use originals cleaned up where possible, but you are certain to have quite a few that need replacing. Helps that having stripped a couple, I have (a few) spare bolts!

    Galvanised (not zinc plated) are also good, but these are probably just as hard to find.

    The most readily available will be zinc plated, and these will be satisfactory provided they are assembled with some form of anti-seize and exposed bits are given a coat of wax from time to time (unless you live in a very wet area, worse if it is hot and wet!).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #54
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    Removed the rear of the car and cleaned up a crap ton of mud and dirt.

    Only damage to the chassis is a small crack where the front passenger side of the tub bolts.
    And the rear has been messed up a bit when attaching a rear bar. I am thinking of ordering a new rear bar from paddocks that some with a fair portion of the chassis rails also. LR250 | SWB 1/4 Chassis inc Spring Hangers - Paddock Spares

    Filled and primed the clutch fluid. Clutch still doesnt work. I can see some small movement in their but not much. Havent checked to see if it needs adjusting.

    Is there somewhere new seat rails can be bought? I cant seem to be able to find them anywhere, and two of mine have the bit that sticks in the air snapped off.

    EDIT- AND the front tips of the chassis are all messed up from dodgily welding on a bullbar, so I need a couple of legs for the front also. The shipping costs of this order are going to be insane...
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  5. #55
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    Craddocks have the seat supports I think, but they are big money (parts 331006 331007 331008).

    Best bet try wanted on here - that's where I got mine from.
    cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark61 View Post
    Craddocks have the seat supports I think, but they are big money (parts 331006 331007 331008).

    Best bet try wanted on here - that's where I got mine from.
    cheers,
    D
    Had a look. Craddocks don't stock them anymore. But I did find one place using the part numbers you gave me and they are like 134 bucks each!
    I shall try the wanted section as you asked.
    I have all the base parts for them. Probably could have a friend to make them up

  7. #57
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by singlecell View Post
    ........
    Is there somewhere new seat rails can be bought? I cant seem to be able to find them anywhere, and two of mine have the bit that sticks in the air snapped off.
    .......
    Try Hohars on this forum. I'd be surprised if they can't help, and they are in Brisbane.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #58
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    We have a rear cross member here, brand new. We can order one with the rear part of chassis rails for you though, in our experience, they aren't well made. When fitting to a customers chassis it was out of alignment so a lot of adjustment had to be done. We probably have the seat rails as well, if you aren't into original it is probably easier to get something made up. Maybe a project for us if there is interest.

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

    Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
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    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by The ho har's View Post
    We have a rear cross member here, brand new. We can order one with the rear part of chassis rails for you though, in our experience, they aren't well made. When fitting to a customers chassis it was out of alignment so a lot of adjustment had to be done. We probably have the seat rails as well, if you aren't into original it is probably easier to get something made up. Maybe a project for us if there is interest.

    Mrs hh
    Thanks for the info. I did put a huge order in last night with Paddocks which includes the rear bar. The guy I have doing my welding is into fabrication and such so hopefully making adjustments shouldn't be too hard for him. I hope..
    I suspect fix my seat rails would be a walk in the park for someone who knows metal work. If my mate cant do it ill be sure to come back and check with you for options.
    Thanks again.

  10. #60
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    Little update for today. Finally, have the wings off. Probably the hardest panels to remove so far.
    Also found my gearbox number 06103165 after removing an inch of grease and dirt and JMSA2 on the transfer case.
    If anyone can identify what that means I would be grateful.

    Hopefully, I might even get the engine out this weekend.
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