Thread: Series 2a - My First Restoration

Looks like a good project but that rust will keep you busy for a while.

Sounds like the engine runs ok - I'd adjust the exhaust valve clearances if you haven't already. They're behind the cover under the exhaust manifold. They can be done with the manifold in position but it's a lot easier to remove it. They get out of tune quite quickly and lack of maintenance in this area will lead to burnt exhaust valves quite quickly which was one of their biggest failings.

There are ways of coaxing a few more HP from this engine if you have some dollars to spare (it gets expensive quickly). They are great when running well, but not as robust as the 4 cylinder and needs more attention and maintenance. I like them myself, but a lot will say how bad they are - those are mostly people that have never owned them. Lovely smooth engines when running properly. Be aware parts are becoming hard to find for them and I would clasify them as an enthusiasts engine, but please don't let that put you off. . There's not that many out there now so it's a nice point of difference to all the Holden 6 powered versions kicking around.

I agree with Gav,
the six is a very sweet running motor and well worth preserving if it's possible.
They sound brilliant running, like a symphony of moving mechanical parts.

Cheers, Mick.

Hi Angus - I haven't purchased a harness just yet, still figuring out if I need one at all.

Homestar, you're right. The rust is keeping me busy. If this car has one thing other than character, it's rust.
The engine is running well. I would have no idea on how to adjust the exhaust valve clearances! looks like I have my research cut out for me. I read that you should do this whilst the engine is warm? I don't think it'll be warm for quite some time now....

Mick - Hopefully I can get it sounding similar to that! I love the sound of the 6 Cyl. My friend has one (ex mil), sounds fantastic driving it around (the rust in his muffler might add to it!).

The next step was to remove the steering and take the bulk head off the chassis. After taking the centre cap off the steering wheel and loosening the nut, I gave the back of the steering wheel a couple of taps with a rubber mallet to loosen it off the spline.
IMG_2710.jpg

After that I tried to take the drop arm off the steering box. I used a gearing puller, which made the job a dream after a couple of light taps with a rubber mallet. Once that happened I could withdraw the steering column through the bulkhead.

IMG_2766.jpg

I went through and the disconnected the throttle linkage, clutch, brake lines (pedals as well), fuel line and anything else connecting the bulk head to the car / engine. This is what I found after dismantling the clutch assembly... crusty. I might replace it first up, then try to refurbish it one day.

IMG_2838.jpg


Once that was done, the next step was to remove the bulk head. I've tried to loosen the two bolts at the base for quite some time, and have soaked them with WD40 any time I could. They were frozen the first few times I tried but after a week or two of soaking every now and then, I managed to get them to turn. I used the tractor again to take the weight of the bulkhead whilst I removed the two bolts. The outriggers, which they went through definitely need replacing. They held a good litre or so of QLD sand in them. The bulk head looks like its seen better days.

IMG_2836.jpg

Silly question.... Is the discolouration of the bulk head due to the heat burning the bulk head paint? Or is it something else?

IMG_2812.jpg
And there it is at the end of the day (back out side again... but at least it's on a concrete pad and not in a muddy paddock).

Jim.

I managed to take the engine out and mount it. I plan to strip it back, put in new gaskets and paint. Looks like it has seen better days. But we will see how I go. It looks like someone has painted it blue, it wouldn't have come out from the factory with this colour would it?
IMG_2984.jpgIMG_4053.jpg

I then removed the springs, axels and chassis bushes. This was a frustrating job. I used the forums here to find the best way forward. I found drilling out the rubber then cutting into the outer metal sleeve carefully with a hack saw was the most effective way (although slow). Chassis is looking a little tired. Getting this sandblasted, primed and painted. I will get the axles done at the same time. Hopefully comes up a treat.
IMG_3084.jpg

The leaf springs have had it (it was pretty obvious from just looking at them though). They are pinched badly and whilst removing them a couple of the bottoms leafs broke off! I'm going to go down the parabolic path, so I'm not too worried about that. I think I'll couple it with SuperPro poly bushes, hoping to get a better ride out of it. I know there are differing opinions on parabolics so I will find out soon enough.

Inside the gearbox and behind the flywheel it's rather dirty. Is there meant to be a gasket between the fly wheel housing and the gear box? I think there is grime getting in through there or is the grime getting in some other way? When I removed them it was just bare metal mating surfaces - would adding a liquid gasket stop this from happening? I also made sure I made a mark on both the housing and wheel, so I can align them up when I put it back in.
IMG_3901.jpg

I then took the gear box out, rather simple. I will have to replace the mounts though. This entire process was fairly straight forward, I had to grind these off though (probably a good thing they don't come off easy!) Nyloc nuts would be an appropriate replacement?
IMG_3031.jpg

Wow your powering ahead I'm still trying to remove wiring in a logical way ...........my bulkhead is at least as bad as yours or worse will be watching how you deal with it


Will be following this thread with much interest..........would love to stop the honey does and spend more time on the 2a but it a balancing act

Cheers Paul

Originally Posted by JimM

Homestar, you're right. The rust is keeping me busy. If this car has one thing other than character, it's rust.
The engine is running well. I would have no idea on how to adjust the exhaust valve clearances! looks like I have my research cut out for me. I read that you should do this whilst the engine is warm? I don't think it'll be warm for quite some time now....

Maybe when you're closer to getting it running again, I can pop over and give you a lesson on valve clearance adjustment - it's not hard once you know how and it'so something you'll need to know how to do.

The manual I have here specifies Tappet clearance for the 2.6 engine as:
inlet. 006" hot
exhaust .010" hot or cold

However for the four cylinder both inlet and exhaust are .010" hot or cold.

Cheers, Mick.

Originally Posted by JimM

Inside the gearbox and behind the flywheel it's rather dirty. Is there meant to be a gasket between the fly wheel housing and the gear box? I think there is grime getting in through there or is the grime getting in some other way? When I removed them it was just bare metal mating surfaces - would adding a liquid gasket stop this from happening? I also made sure I made a mark on both the housing and wheel, so I can align them up when I put it back in.
Many years of clutch dust, oil leakage from the rear main seal and maybe dirt from river crossings. No gasket fitted, usually no sealant either as there should be nothing inside to leak out. Adding sealant may make it harder to separate the engine & gearbox in the car in the future.

Nyloc nuts would be an appropriate replacement?
IMG_3031.jpg
The nuts fitted are an early locking type (before Nylocs). Similar principal to a Nyloc, there would have been a fibre washer in the folded over end which was smaller than the thread so created friction to stop it coming undone. When you remove the nut the fibre will crumble away to dust or may already be missing.....

Some parts for the 6-cylinder are getting scarce (read expensive). I needed piston rings and was quoted some crazy prices FFR Refurb

The motor in my FFR has been painted blue. Probably a particular engine re-builder painted them blue after they were reconditioned.

The exhaust tappets can be adjusted in situ but you have to remove the dipstick assembly or some people remove the exhaust manifold. Have done them in situ and you have to get on top of the motor & hang upside down virtually.

6-cylinder water pumps can be expensive (if you can source one) but I understand that the bearing/shaft assembly from the 4-cylinder pump can be modified to fit.


Best of luck with the rebuild.


Colin