Im really liking this build.
Cheers Rod
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						Its been a productive week or so on this build as I now have a rolling chassis!
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I picked up the chassis, axels and freshly painted wheels from the sandblaster prior to the long weekend. They came out absolutely fantastic. I was really happy with the quality of work and finish.
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The long weekend was great to get a solid couple of days to work on it. I've been able to install superpro bushes and parabolic springs along with the axles, so hopefully the ride is greatly improved. I've found that since installing the parabolics, the chassis is sitting about 2 inches higher than an ex military S3 my friend has. It'll be interesting to see how it settles after dropping in the engine, gearbox, bulkhead and the panels. Ive heard overall I'll get an inch or so extra from standard height.
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Next time I should put the rod inside the springs. I have to replace that tie rod end so had to disassemble that section anyway. Looks quite nice with new u-bolts, nuts, shackles and fresh paint. I took all the brakes apart and to my surprise there was a huge amount of meat left on the pads. no real noticeable difference in thickness to the brand new pads I have to replace them. No cylinders were leaking either. Looks like I'll be keeping the overhaul kit for later down the track (I had new pads, cylinders and springs to replace everything with). I gave the brakes a clean and put the drums back on. The challenge for me will be doing the brake lines by myself.
Whilst building up the chassis, I was able to make some progress on the engine as well. I managed to strip and paint the engine breather, side cover, breather cap, external oil assembly and a few more bits and pieces. For these pieces I used a combination of paint stripper and wire wheeling to get clean.
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I've also found molasses to work fantastic for some other rusted parts. Letting the items sit in a tub (ratio of 9:1 water to molasses), coming out great after a few weeks. I've been soaking the exhaust manifold and it has come up fantastic. I've gone a bit off from the traditional restoration, painting it a matt black. The molasses ate all the rust, showing nice crisp detailing of the numbers on the manifold. Even though the molasses ate the rust, the manifold wasn't very pretty. I didn't want to paint it silver, so I thought black would be a good option. Before molasses and after painting below.
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I'm glad I replaced the gaskets on the engine too. Have a look at one of the gaps on the rocker cover. There were 3 in total. What kind of effect would this have on engine performance?
Would applying a high-temp copper sealant (permatex) to the rocker cover side of the cork gasket hurt? I'm thinking that it might help prevent it slipping and creating these gaps in the future?
Also what is the appropriate torque settings for the bolts on the rocker cover and side cover?
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And this is how the engine currently stands. Colour is a bit off in the photo below. I'll try and find an accurate representation one day. looks too blue.
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Slowly getting there.
Im really liking this build.
Cheers Rod
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						Just read this thread in full.
UNREAL amount of work in around a month,....well done.
Pickles.
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						Thanks Pickles. It may look like month, but I only started the thread once I stripped the vehicle so the month of this thread isn't an entirely accurate representation. I only decided to start writing just before the 'rebuild part' as I thought some people might find it interesting and it's a good way to document my progress. Hopefully it helps a few people along the way too.
Rod and John, thanks for the kind comments. I'm glad some other people are enjoying it too! It's been such a great experience so far.
I've come across a metal polish that works really well for the welsh plugs. Mine were previously looking rather dirty and dull, however weren't rotted out.
I used a clean rag and polished them by hand. The below picture shows the welsh plugs from left to right, before, during and after. Really makes it shine.
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						SubscriberJim
Great work.
Quick question, did you rebuild the axel housings and wheel assemblies? Mine look ok other than long term oil leaks. I am thinking of stripping them down and hopefully just replacing the gaskets and seals.
Cheers
Angus
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Thanks Angus. I haven't yet.
I have swivel hub seals ready to replace but thats really about it. I discovered that I might have a leak in in the rear diff housing. Not too sure though, just monitoring it at the moment. It could just be from my messy replacement of diff fluid! I could have spilled some when replacing. Either that or is the Diff Final Drive Pinion Seal leaking (?). I'll find out when I see it again this weekend, hopefully there is no oil on the ground.
If there is, I will probably do the same as you and rebuild them, whilst replacing the seals and gaskets.
Looking good!
Nice to see a six cylinder exhaust manifold that is not cracked.
Keep up the good work and the posts.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
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Thanks Mick!
I'm now looking into getting my brakes done and weighing up if it's worthwhile to do myself or pay someone to do it for me. I've never done anything like break lines before, so I will need to go out and buy the equipment and tools etc, plus it's a job I'd probably want done properly.
What could I expect to pay for new brake lines throughout/ Whats a reasonable price? I'd also have to get extended (2"?) flexible brake lines to allow for the parabolic suspension correct? I had a quick look on this forum, but couldn't find an indicative price.
Thanks,
Jim
2" Flexible brake lines are around $100 a set from OS or your local brake place can do them for about $150 set. The solid lines are a different story - the lines aren't expensive but you'll need a good double flaring tool and know how to use it. If you're unsure of this part, it may be better to have them done for you. Not sure what the job would cost all up though.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
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