Thread: My first series 2a project

Well, ill keep them coming...

Question: I will be using a copper head gasket as i have one available. I have never used one before and i believe theres a coating to be applied. Can anyone confirm what product to use and how to apply it (on head/block, or on gasket).

Thanks

So I have been busy since I got the 2a... making the most of it now as I got some other work that needs tending to in the near future! Anyway, have a look at the condition of the oil and bottom end, nothing screamed at me as being bad so I put the sump back on. Havent filled with oil yet, I will take the sump drain plug out and pour new oil into each lifter (should of done this before putting sump back on!). A step closer to getting it started.

Carlos
Thanks for the video's - very informative and helpful.
Cheers
Angus

Originally Posted by Cap

Well, ill keep them coming...

Question: I will be using a copper head gasket as i have one available. I have never used one before and i believe theres a coating to be applied. Can anyone confirm what product to use and how to apply it (on head/block, or on gasket).

Thanks

Buy urself a spray can of hylomar, spray both sides of the gasket b4 u install it. Its the best available nowadays.

Cheers Rod

I am hoping to get the head back on tomorrow, but have another q. Do the head bolt threads need a light amount of oil (like 300tdi head bolts) before torquing down?

Originally Posted by Cap

I am hoping to get the head back on tomorrow, but have another q. Do the head bolt threads need a light amount of oil (like 300tdi head bolts) before torquing down?

That's always best practice IMO. Make sure the threads in the block are nice and clean - run a tap down them if you have one.

Thanks snoops

Ohh and one more again... just thought of it, I read somewhere about re-torquing after a heat cycle? So this means I run the engine to temp for a while, then turnoff and let cool and re-torque?

More modern gaskets generally don't need to, but as your using a copper gasket it wouldn't be a bad idea. Back off each bolt one at a time 1/4 turn then re touque to spec. Not 100% sure if that's the way it's supposed to be done, but it was th way I was taught and I've done that on many an engine and never had one leak after.