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Thread: My first Series 2a x3 (NZ)

  1. #21
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    I got same issue with dinged cross member bottoms. One base is tack welded to the sides so can easily be replaced... i remember seen threads on uk forums of these being changed, The other one (gearbox) not so sure.
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
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  2. #22
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOMIS1234 View Post
    .....

    Also I have been researching assisted brake setups. The ld28 comes with vacuum pump integrated into the alternator so I am all good there. That said, what is the easiest/most cost affective solution ?

    Thanks in advance
    Simon
    .......
    The simplest is to fit a remote booster such as a VH44. The alternative is to fit a Series 3 boosted master cylinder and pedal tower and pedal. This allows conversion to dual braking, with plumbing complication, and the need to modify the splash panel under the RH mudguard (or use a S3 one) and its attachment at the top.

    If I remember rightly, this one is a swb, which means that it is easy to make substantial braking improvements even without vacuum assist simply by fitting lwb brakes - drums, backing plates, shoes etc plus master cylinder. You could do just the front, or front and rear, but if only doing front you need to seek expert advice on what master cylinder to use. With the front brakes you also have the option of going to the wider drums fitted to the six and the V8 (and all late lwb). This is probably a bit of overkill unless the power is increased markedly, and does increase the unsprung weight unnecessarily.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #23
    NOMIS1234 Guest
    Update

    Joe has had a good water blast and has come up quite well.



    Disassembled the windscreen wiper mechanism and bagged it ready for when I can get at it. Does anyone have any info on the trim that covers the drive worm and wiper gears from the inside above the dash? Mine doesn't seem to have one. Also the trim that covers the wiper motor in the dash on the left hand side.

    I have also started dismantling the parts Landy, which I think was military, judging by the rear crossmember. It really is in rough condition. I touched one of the outriggers and it completely fell apart onto the driveway. The body, drivetrain and steering assembly will be handy to practice taking apart and to have spare bits ready to go.




    Wanting some info on the Salisbury diff also. Is this a factory option? Or is it more likely to be an upgrade?

    Cheers in advance

    Simon

  4. #24
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    The Salisbury diff was an option on late production S2a 109, and standard on Series 3 109. Note that it has a longer nose, so the prop shaft is shorter. It was never an option on the 88, and while it is said to be possible to fit, it requires a very short prop shaft and is likely to involve using special U-joints to avoid binding at large angles on full rebound.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #25
    NOMIS1234 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The Salisbury diff was an option on late production S2a 109, and standard on Series 3 109. Note that it has a longer nose, so the prop shaft is shorter. It was never an option on the 88, and while it is said to be possible to fit, it requires a very short prop shaft and is likely to involve using special U-joints to avoid binding at large angles on full rebound.
    Thanks for the info, Joe the blue landy has one in the rear, which has been there a while and looks to have had no issues. Do they normally have a different drive ratio to standard 2a rear? Cheers, Simon

  6. #26
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    No. All Series Landrovers except a few very early 80" and Series 3 Stage 1 were 4.7:1. While the Rover diffs came in a variety of ratios and these are a bolt in swap for Landrover axles with Rover diffs, Landrovers with Salisbury diffs only came as 4.7 or 3.54:1 (Stage 1), so there are only two likely ratios. Stage 1s are far less common, but it is still possible that one of these is fitted.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #27
    NOMIS1234 Guest
    So while I pull apart the parts truck, I decided to remedy the 300mm of top to bottom play in the drivers side wheel bearing. Turns out the drivers side outer bearing was absolutely flogged to the point where the bearings were unrecognisable. Looked like little stones.

    The bearing race was also mangled. The main thread for the bearing nuts was flogged. I had to cut the nuts off with the dremel.

    When I got it, the guy said that the 4x4 "didn't work" this may be why..... also the drive shaft spline was stuffed. Are these available for sale anywhere?


    So the donor parts from the parts Landy worked well. No bearing slop now, although I didn't swap the brakes over because the old hub was stuffed and the drum screws were ceased. I have a manual impact driver on the way which should get them out hopefully and I can swap them over.

    Now, at least I can safely move Joe in and out of the driveway while I disassemble the parts truck. This is where I left it this afternoon. Progress is slow but not stagnant.



    Cheers
    Simon

  8. #28
    NOMIS1234 Guest
    Update

    The parts Landy has been stripped and the chassis and firewall have been sent to the fiery pits of Land Rover hell... (scrap yard)





    Chassis converted to a two piece thanks to the trusty angle grinder and everything fit on the trailer nicely.

    Cheers,
    Simon

  9. #29
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    I note you seem to have consigned to scrap what looks like a serviceable metal brake fluid reservoir - these are sought after and expensive ($100+) to buy.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I note you seem to have consigned to scrap what looks like a serviceable metal brake fluid reservoir - these are sought after and expensive ($100+) to buy.

    John
    Back to the tip Simon,,,, you'll learn to be a hoarder of serviceable parts like the rest of us

    Hence why I'm not allowed to clearing sales etc

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