Thread: In the last couple of days pn my Series 2a............

A few days ago, I started a service on my 2a. I decided that while I was at it I would do a few of the non-urgent jobs that have been on the list for a long time.

Changed the engine oil and filter. Serviced the aircleaner. And while I was at it, replaced the hose to the carburettor. The old one had holes worn in the outer layer where the hose rubs on the choke cable. More important on the new hose, since the wire is right on the inside - the old one had another layer on the inside, so even when the wire in the hose is showing, there is no leak.

To stop this happening I made a small metal tab that goes under the centre nut on the rocker cover, and has the choke cable tied to it, stopping it from touching the aircleaner hose.

Then checked the tappets. All were exactly on the specified .010".

Then oiled the springs, removing all wheels for access (it is up on stands).

This morning, started off by degreasing much of the underpinnings, morning tea while that dried off.

Then spent the rest of the morning stopping (I hope) the leak from the LH Warn freewheel hub. This hub is in two parts. The inner part carries a dog on the end of the driving stub axle, running in a roller bearing. The outer section has the other half of the dog clutch engaged or disengaged by a multistart thread actuator, turned by the knob on the outside and keyed to the outer part of the hub by about a dozen keys. The knob is attached to the actuator by a peg and a small screw. This presented the first challenge. It is an Allen screw, taking a 5/32" key. I put as much pressure on a key as I was game, and then rethought the issue. The knob is bronze, so I heated it with a heat gun, as the bronze will expand more than the steel screw. With this and finding a correct sized 1/4" drive Allen key, and turning it with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 1/4" socket, I was able to remove the screw. Then it was simply a matter of finding a replacement O-ring for the one keeping the oil in. This turned out to be one form my metric assortment. Rather surprising, since the hubs were made in the USA in the sixties. Reassembly after cleaning and greasing everything was pretty straightforward.

After I finish lunch, I plan to remove the front prop shaft to replace the boot on it. As someone mentioned in another thread, the ones you can get do not last! I can't remember when I last replaced this, but I think it was only about a year ago!

A good idea to capture the cable to stop it from damaging others. Probably not so critical, but i intend to make one to hold the coil lead which lays over the tappet cover. At present, I've got it taped up to the air filter tube.
I think theres a few things hanging around my engine bay that could do with the same treatment.