Thread: clutch adjustment woes

There are a lot of moving parts from pedal to clutch plate and a little bit of wear can amount to a lot of maladjustment
the end of the rod you purchased goes to an arm welded to a shaft that then joins into a tube which connects to throw out thingo
one end you can see the other is within the bell housing, this connecting tube connects to the two shafts by pins and split pins if there is slop in this connection due to wear it can remove a lot of movement
Hope this helps there are others here a lot more knowledgable will post some pictures tomorrow if you don't get more info in the mean time
Cheers Paul

I can see three possible scenarios.

1. One or both of the two pins linking the slave cylinder bell crank shaft to the clutch fork shaft is partly sheared or broken on one side (most likely)

2. The clutch fork has been assembled on the clutch shaft one spline out.

3. It is using a Series 3 pressure plate - the Series 2a 9.5" one has a spacer attached - I'm not certain that you could get the clutch to work with this even extending the slave cylinder piston rod, but it is a possibility.

Another thought is that the bell crank has been repaired inaccurately, although can't imagine why it would need repairing!

Thanks for the info guys.

John, I just had a quick look and there is a little play on the pin on the outside of the box, but very little. I assume if I remove that rubber grommet ill be able to check the internal one? Is it replaceable though without removing the gear box?

EDIT - Quick google has answered my own question, yes it can be replace easily enough.

and if you happen to drop the pin into the bell housing take the shifter off and magnet it up through the hole in the bell housing.

Id say dont ask but someone always does...


yes, I have.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

and if you happen to drop the pin into the bell housing take the shifter off and magnet it up through the hole in the bell housing.

Id say dont ask but someone always does...


yes, I have.

I held it white knuckle tight!

After removing the grommet I could see the internal shaft hardly moved when pulling the lever down. I stripped it all down and found what looks to be 2 homemade pins, one is a bolt with the end cut off. The other is quite worn. The connection tube is also worn. The holes have had weld added to them in the past to fix it up. The lever itself seems to have the hole stretched out in the direction the pin has been touching.

So I think I will order 2 new pins, a new connecting tube and a new lever.

Also once off should there be any play in the rod sticking out of the gearbox? I can turn it back and forth a bit with ease. I can't really see if the holes in the internal shaft are worn. But I guess that's a whole new level of work if that needs replacing.
Hopefully be able to sort out all needed over the long weekend to place an order on monday.


IMG_20190124_163502.jpg

yes, there should be movement on the rod that the joiner attaches to.

when you rotate it in the clutch disengage direction the arms push up onto the throwout bearing, when you rotate it the other the arms disengage from the throw out once the pressure from the pressure plate fingers stop pushing on the throw out bearing.

its this slack that the adjustment rod on the slave side is designed to remove and the adjustment up on the MC sets your pedal height and position.

due to the magic of mechanics and levers... you can tweak the position of the arm and push rod on the slave a little to take advantage of the leverage from the lever on the clutch pivot rod.

If you set it up so that the lever is just above 90 degrees to the slave when the clutch is at the take up point you will have a clutch that is easy to finesse but harder to hold fully disengaged. If you set it up so that the lever is well above 90 degrees at the take up point and at 90 degrees when fully depressed then you will have a clutch that is a little harder to finesse but is easier to hold fully disengaged.

as the clutch wears the lever arm will move down naturally and the hydraulics will take up the slack.

Ps i always leave adjusting the pedal height until the clutch is working correctly. Then you can set the pedal to where you want it .

I also found once someone had changed the clutch pedal pivot points ?? i replaced the clutch pedal and the clutch worked much better.

Ian
Bittern

I think you will be right getting new pins and tube, but for others reading this thread - the load on these is very high, and both the tube and the pins are hardened. Replacing the pins with bolts or other pins out of the shed will have a very short life, measured in months at best.