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Besides stressing over my nuts I managed to get a bit done today....honed cylinders
Removed rear main and seal Attachment 151270 Attachment 151271
Made guides Attachment 151272 to install these Attachment 151273 new are a bit bigger than old, may be interesting to fit, on hold till I get some Hylomar sealer
Turned to head and Attachment 151274 Attachment 151275 lapped in valves
Noah's spring compressor Attachment 151276
Cheers Paul
I fitted a new rear main seal kit came with new metal half moon plate thingys. I also used silastic instead of those t seals. Too bloody hard to fit. Spose ill find out when i eventually get my diesel going...
Make sure you use Hylomar or similar behind the two half moon rubber coated plates and also between them where they mate together.
Make up a couple of angled plates to assist the fitment of the "T" Seals, it easy enough to do.
As Rod said re: the hone job, move the hone quickly up and down the cylinder to get a good cross hatch.
Use Loctite (Blue, Service Removable, or if you reckon you are never going to pull it down again and want absolute peace of mind, you could
go for a stronger one like Red) on the rod nuts, either the new ones, or reuse the originals, and pull them down to the specified tension. Just make sure
they are very clean and oil free before you apply the Loctite, CRC Brake Clean is good for the job.
A few years ago I honed a donk (not a Land Rover) I was rebuilding and didn't get a decent cross hatch, it used oil like it was fuel.
I stripped it down and re-honed it, that rectified the issue, doesn't use a drop of oil now. A good cross hatch is critical.
Cheers, Mick.
Mick/Rod I'll check honing tomorrow as I was fairly light handed...cordless drill on low speed, I was worried I'd remove to much material
Got all valves back in and head painted will fit rocker gear when the head is on the block
Attachment 151280
Also received a package from QLD containing instruments and parts ...thank you Mr Oneoff
Any tips from the wise re piston ring gap orientation[bighmmm]
Cheers Paul
Paul there should be a pamphlet in the new ring box showing correct ring placement, the correct way up, and the correctQuote:
Originally Posted by bemm52
ring gap orientation.
A poor cross hatch can result in excessive oil consumption. A hone is not just a matter of deglazing the cylinder.
If a piston is able to pick up a smidge of oil per stroke, after a few hours of running at several thousand rpm, that will
equate to a lot of oil being carried up the cylinders, and burnt.
Maintaining the proper cross hatch angle is important for two reasons;
- Oil retention on the cylinder wall and
- The rate of ring rotation. Excessively shallow cross hatch angles can hinder or slow down the necessary ring rotation that allows dissipation of heat. It can also leave too much oil on the cylinder wall allowing the rings to skate over the surface leading to excess oil consumption. Too steep of a cross hatch angle may not provide adequate oil retention and can result in dry starts and premature ring wear. A steep pattern angle can also create excessive ring rotation that will accelerate ring and piston ring groove wear.
This link below shows the importance of a good hone job and the obtaining the correct cross hatch.
Boring & Honing Instructions - Race Winning Brands Europe
Cheers, Mick.
Rear main seal fitted Attachment 151298 Attachment 151300
Honing didn't look to bad so I left it, my old mechanic mate dropped in and gave me some advice about ring gaps,
his placement was pretty well spot on to your diagrams Mick
Attachment 151301 Attachment 151299
After some thought I decided to use the old conrod nuts with thread locker
Block painted Attachment 151302
Cheers Paul
Is that the "Duck Egg Blue" Paul?
No its an aerosol engine enamel called "Pontiac Blue", slightly darker than "Duck Egg Blue" as far as I can tell but readily availableQuote:
Originally Posted by Chops
Cheers Paul
For LR 2.25 Donk Blue think more Pastel Blue IMHO.
I hope they’re some use to you. [thumbsupbig]Quote:
Originally Posted by bemm52
